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Old 19-04-2012, 08:35 PM   #27
Pub247
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Join Date: May 2007
Location: Pakenham S.E. Melbourne
Posts: 1,560
Default Re: Should i buy a VL?

If you can get it cheap say $500 or less and its in good condition i'd buy it make a great daily. An SL is never going to be as collectable as a calais BT1 or turbo berlina. Hell a VH SL/E factory 308 in a good colour fetch $15,000 for a good condition one. Once you past that classic 30 years window these old cars go through the roof.

You could make a few grand on it in a few years time but i think you'd be better putting it to good use as a daily or drag car they make excellant drag cars. There's a few in the 7 sec 1/4 bracket now running stock suspension



Quote:
Originally Posted by 68xt
VL Commodore. In time it may be valuable but there is nothing really appealing about it. If it was a BT1, turbo or V8. it would be worth hanging on to, but a standard VL would need to be in immaculate condition with very low KMS to be valuable later on. You could probably pick up a VN SS for around $1500 which would be more collectable.

My advice, save your bucks, there are plenty of collectable cars still untapped.
Show me where you can get a decent vn ss for $1500 if you do i suggest you buy it as they have gone through the roof
An average one condition one fetches about $3-5000


Quote:
Originally Posted by svo supporter
Check that it's running coolant....if not, walk away as they are prone to corrosion of the alloy head.

Check the loom in the engine bay is in tact....ie no melted bits, including connectors.
All that checks out, good chance it'll be a good reliable car mechanically.
Having done cylinder head welding i can tell you for a fact corrosion problems were minimal on RB30's. Ford heads X Flow and e series were among the worst for it.

Main problem with vl head were people not maintaining cooling system and leaving air pockets trapped in it causing heads to crack. Their head gaskets are super strong too poeple running 10's on factory nissan head gaskets.

I'd be checking fuse box for anything melted most common problem is the fuse rail melting when people put higher rated headlight globes in.


Quote:
Originally Posted by svo supporter
Not very quick at learning from their mistakes .

Seriously I have no idea. The only reason I know a little about the VL head/engine bay problems is I recently went looking at them for my daughter. A good mate told me what to look for, so I'm just passing on what I know.

Other things to look for are....The bearing plates haven't bowed upwards. This is a sign the front shocks have been stuffed for a while. Relatively cheap fix.....ie needs new shocks and bearing plates.

Centre bearings in the tailshaft have a habit of being stuffed. Signs are it'll vibrate throughout the car at 2,00RPM plus....Look at the K-frame where the radius rod goes through.....Make sure the flat section of the K-frame is actually flat and not twisted/pushed downwards and or inwards. This is a sign it's hit a gutter/centre island fairly hard. If it's twisted/pushed downwards, walk away from it.....requires a new K-frame.

If you want a good motor for it. an RB25, not the RB20. They're found in Skylines of the same era as the VL.

Hopefully this provides a little more insite
Personally i'd stick with the RB30 when you can get 1250hp out of one why bother converting??

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ieVDf...layer_embedded

When you get an e seires motor making 1250hp then upgrade to a twin cam
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