3 lock 1 doesnt

[brad`]

ok so i found a thread before helping me to understand what im looking for.. to bad my brother restarted my computer and now i cant remember what thread it was...

so its like this, 3 of my doors lock but the rear passanger doesnt. i need my car for work and stuff so i made it so u cant open the door from the oudside but still from the inside.
it makes a qinding noise like it wants to lock but cant (obviously) i found the black thingo that has the cog and that in it, but i cant get to it, to see if if it has snaped or not since it is, in that rear part of the door next to the child lock.

can someone help me ? i dont know if i should justy pay to get it done or have a look at it my self, id rather save my money and have a go, i just got quoated $198 for an auto-elect to fit and replace it. but i dont like spenidng anything ova $150 so yeah. haha

[JC]

Originally Posted by brad`

ok so i found a thread before helping me to understand what im looking for.. to bad my brother restarted my computer and now i cant remember what thread it was...

so its like this, 3 of my doors lock but the rear passanger doesnt. i need my car for work and stuff so i made it so u cant open the door from the oudside but still from the inside.
it makes a qinding noise like it wants to lock but cant (obviously) i found the black thingo that has the cog and that in it, but i cant get to it, to see if if it has snaped or not since it is, in that rear part of the door next to the child lock.

can someone help me ? i dont know if i should justy pay to get it done or have a look at it my self, id rather save my money and have a go, i just got quoated $198 for an auto-elect to fit and replace it. but i dont like spenidng anything ova $150 so yeah. haha

OK, how much help do you need?

For a start, the part itself is around $150 from Ford, so the extra $48 is worth the effort, IMO, unless you really want to do it yourself.

So, to do it yourself, here's what you do:

1. Remove rear door trim (2 screws at bottom of trim, one in window winder, one in door handle "cup" thingy, on near child lock on the back/side part of the door), then pull door trim off.

2. Undo the door handle to locking unit metal bar/rod (the fix to keep the door locked from the outside is NOT to reinstall this rod - but make sure your child lock is in the free position so that the inside handle WILL open the door.)

3. Undo the 3 torx screws that hold the lock/striker mechanism in the door

4. Undo the electrical connector

5. Undo the cable from the inside door handle - either at the handle, or at the now mostly uninstalled locking mechanism.

6. Remove the mechanism from the door.

7. Go inside and make a coffee/tea/beer/bourbon

8. Undo the four screws holding the top of the black motor body on.

9. Carefully remove the top of the body, and then check the white gear shaft - I have a $100 note that says it's snapped.

10. At this point you can either try to fix the gear by drilling it and using a 1.5mm long shank metal screw to hold it together, in combination with superglue. Or you can just replace the whole mechanism (min $150 from Ford, or around $80- from the wreckers)

11. If step 10 doesn't appeal to you, then you actually could have stopped at step 2. This will render the door "unopenable" from the outside.

12. Installation is the reverse of removal.

[T-Pak Addict]

Originally Posted by JC

7. Go inside and make a coffee/tea/beer/bourbon

Thats Gold ^^^^^^^

Not a hard job to do yourself. Couldnt find a front door at the wreckers so got a rear one and took the gear out of it and put it in the old one. Fiddly but it works fine now. At least the misses can lock her car now.......

Cost me $65 for the lock mech took about 45 mins with me pulling it all apart changing bits over.

[GasoLane]

Originally Posted by AU Falcon 99

Cost me $65 for the lock mech took about 45 mins with me pulling it all apart changing bits over.

Is that price for a second hand one? Sheeet!

Originally Posted by brad`

how much extra we talking for the wiring loom ?

Do you mean the wires that come from the lock?

[brad`]

lol, i like going to step 12. step 2 cost to much money haha
is it worth getting a second hand one or should i just replace the entire unit with a new one ?

[JC]

Originally Posted by brad`

lol, i like going to step 12. step 2 cost to much money haha
is it worth getting a second hand one or should i just replace the entire unit with a new one ?

That's up to you. The new ones are actually revised BA Mk2 parts, where the gear is metal, not plastic. To fit to a BA or AU, an addition to the loom is also required, which adds to the expense a little, but once replaced, you'd never even have to worry about it in the future. If you use a second hand one, with plastic gear, then you will need to replace that gear when (not IF) it breaks, which may be 3 months, or 3 years, depending on frequency of door opening events, age of second hand part etc.

If you're unsure of what to do, until you decide one way or another, definitely do step 1 and step 2 - that way your car is at least lockable.

[GasoLane]

Or do what I did, twice!
Get reco ones from Melbourne (on Ebay or ring him direct) for $65 + $10 overnight postage.

Fit them your self in 1/2 hour.

Oops... I see he also has genuine new locks now... $110

[Mr Hardware]

i got my drivers door one done at the local auto elecs, charged me $77 for a secondhand/reco unit and $77 for labour. I was happy with that.

[V3RSAC3]

this is a common au problem! when mine went (same door) i just went and got it replaced by my mechanic .. don't know the price sorry!

hahha and JC you never cease too amaze me :P

[InfernoSR]

So in theory... if i was able to get the locks from a BA Mk2 wrecker, i could change over just the drive shaft and all will be good?

[JC]

Originally Posted by BLUEPRINT

So in theory... if i was able to get the locks from a BA Mk2 wrecker, i could change over just the drive shaft and all will be good?

I believe so, but am not 100% sure that the metal gears are a straight swap with the plastic ones - it may be that the little motor etc is changed as well. At worst though, you could just splice the wires on the Mk2 lock into the AU loom.

I know for sure that just replacing the gear works on BA Mk1 or any AU lock, but don't limit yourself just to BAs etc; Mazda 323s from the same era have the exact same locks (and the exact same issues with them), but as an option from the wreckers, these may be cheaper than Falcon ones. Also check eBay from time to time; my brother in law picked up a Mazda one for $15, and it's been happily working in my olds AU since he bought it 2 years ago.

V3RSAC3 - thanks, but it's just experience; having owned 5 AUs, and having pulled most of them apart at some stage, I pretty much know what breaks, and how to fix it.

[InfernoSR]

Thanks for the heads up JC

[brad`]

the BA MKII one sounds like a better idea..ro rellabile i presume ? how much extra we talking for the wiring loom ?

[T-Pak Addict]

yeah unfortunately so $65 wasnt happy