Rounded the Sump plug on the AU, now what?!

private9 · 10-12-2006, 08:49 PM

Hi All,

Thought I'd be nice this morning and give the AU an early oil and filter change. Unfortunately though the sump plug must have been over tightened when it had it's last service, and now I've rounded the bloody thing trying to get it off!

Obviously a new sump plug is a given, but how on earth do I get the old one off?

Thanks,

Justin.

ReVd_uP · 10-12-2006, 08:53 PM

try vise grips, or even a hammer an chisel, ive had to get AU transmission filler plugs undone using a hammer and chisel from people over tightening them and rounding them off

FalKeen · 10-12-2006, 08:54 PM

id try either cutting a slot in to the middle of it and use a large screwdriver, or alternatively grind two flat edges on the outsides of it and use a spanner on it

GK · 10-12-2006, 09:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by FalKeen

id try either cutting a slot in to the middle of it and use a large screwdriver, or alternatively grind two flat edges on the outsides of it and use a spanner on it

Both very good ideas!

GK

private9 · 10-12-2006, 09:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GK

Both very good ideas!

GK

They are!! I'll give both a try hopefully next weekend and will let you all know how I go! Knowing me I'll end up putting the chisel through the sump!

On a related matter, I've seen plenty of threads about the magnetic sump plugs, but has anyone heard about the sump plugs that have a valve/tap on them so you never have to undo it again - just release the valve to drain the oil.

I've read about them somewhere, but can't seem to find them, even on ebay!

AWD Chaser · 10-12-2006, 09:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by private9

They are!! I'll give both a try hopefully next weekend and will let you all know how I go! Knowing me I'll end up putting the chisel through the sump!

On a related matter, I've seen plenty of threads about the magnetic sump plugs, but has anyone heard about the sump plugs that have a valve/tap on them so you never have to undo it again - just release the valve to drain the oil.

I've read about them somewhere, but can't seem to find them, even on ebay!

Bad Idea - causes too many leaks, due to metal heating, cooling, rock hitting the tap, etc...

private9 · 10-12-2006, 09:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by au3 chaser

Bad Idea - causes too many leaks, due to metal heating, cooling, rock hitting the tap, etc...

Really? Damn I was kinda looking forward to the convenience!

Sounds like you used one of these yourself?

**gregaust** · 10-12-2006, 09:07 PM

Get yourself a single hex ,6 sided socket.Be surprised if that doesn't get it off..And saves the hammer and chisel :(

TwistedEL · 10-12-2006, 11:15 PM

I did the same thing on a Magna not long ago, a pair of good vice grips and a lot of persistance got it off eventually

Make sure you buy the new one before removing the old one

autickfordfairmont · 11-12-2006, 11:07 AM

i always use a 6 sided socket to remove mine, no chance of rounding it off then. there is one other way but not sure about doing it near Oil, that is to very very very carefully tac weld a bolt onto the end of it, then you use the bolt head to undo, good way to get rounded bolts off, or if you happen to loose your locking nut for your wheels. But as said, not to sure about doing it on the sump plug, to much flamable liquids around for my liking.

Sourbastard · 11-12-2006, 11:30 AM

Go buy a cheap socket of similar size, find someone with an arc welder, weld the socket onto the bolt, remove bolt with a socket wrench.

EvilChief · 11-12-2006, 11:55 PM

weld a piece of flat steel on it and u vice grips

thats what i used to take off lock nuts of my mates car, as he didnt have the key for them

bonk182 · 12-12-2006, 01:04 AM

Gday mate,

Had the same thing happen to my car. and it was really really really rounded. It is a 16mm hex head - and people should use ONLY a 16mm socket to undo it. Try some inox lubricant see if it penetrates at all, then try one of these sockets

- designed to take of rounded nuts. i cant remember what you call them (maybe someone else could help there....) but mechanic mate has a fully set of them. they are the invention of the century! you might be able to purchase the single socket.

hope this helps.

-James

au2sw · 12-12-2006, 01:17 AM

Single hex socket is the best way everytime to remove any nut and/or bolt that requires a tight fit. As for welding around sump, ie welding another nut onto rounded bolt head, there is no problem unless you puncture a hole in the sump and have a nice little puddle under where your welding. The only place I never try welding on is steel petrol tanks or gas tanks. But if you (or anyone else out there) are worried about welding or dont have a welder, single hex socket with a breaker bar (a strong bar with adaptor for the socket with a length of about 30cm up wards for those who are not mechanicaly minded) will remove a rounded bolt as you will still have flat edges. Good luck.

Also, you mentioned you were giving her an early service? how early? I have heard that if you change your oil and filter to often you can actually end up causing damage to the motor, that and it becomes more expensive for you buying oil and filters. 10,000km or 6 months is ideal.

private9 · 12-12-2006, 09:42 PM

Thanks for all the advice everyone, really appreciate it!

Quote:

Originally Posted by au2sw

Also, you mentioned you were giving her an early service? how early? I have heard that if you change your oil and filter to often you can actually end up causing damage to the motor, that and it becomes more expensive for you buying oil and filters. 10,000km or 6 months is ideal.

I'm servicing it a few thousand kays early (after about 7-8k) only because I was doing the EF and thought since I had everything out I may as well do the AU rather than dragging everything out again!

I can't imagine that you'd cause any damage by servicing early though - most old school mechanics still recommend that you change at 5000 not 10 or 15 as recommended by most manufacturers.

But then yes, you would have balance the extra service costs against the increased life you're giving your car!

RIPGMH · 12-12-2006, 01:39 AM

Forget welding anything on the sump/engine, send an arc through to a bearing and you'll screw it. The product in the crude drawing is called an Xtraktor (brand name) and it basically features helical cuts which grip the bolt/stud/nut and removes it. I don't know if they're avaliable individually but I believe the biggest size is 17mm
http://www.excaliburtools.com/xtrakt...d_stud_re.html

A small pair of stillsons is another possibility, if it was tight enough to strip the head of the bolt (provided you were using the correct size spanner) then it is probably going to take some effort. You could also drill a small hole up the centre of bolt and use an easy out. I purchased a set of Metrich sockets which I generally only use on rounded nuts. They drive off the walls of the bolt head rather than the corners, thus allowing them to handle metric/imperial and rounded fasteners. But as has already been said a six point "impact" socket is generally the best.

EA2BA · 12-12-2006, 09:53 PM

you can always file down 2 sides till the are flat and then get the correct size open ended spanner on it and undo it, works for me on larger nuts and bolts.

StealthAu · 12-12-2006, 09:55 PM

who the fudge told you it does damsdge? what a crock of shit. What pooable damadge is clean oil going to cause?

Syncro · 13-12-2006, 02:49 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by stockoau

who the fudge told you it does damsdge? what a crock of shit. What pooable damadge is clean oil going to cause?

Yes I heard of someone that had access to free oil, so changed it too offenn and did some sort of damage (ie glazing or something I think)

FORDNUTS90 · 12-12-2006, 09:55 PM

use vice grips or get a old bolt n cut the head of and weld it on top thats my fav one but ur choice

Syncro · 13-12-2006, 02:55 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by FORDNUTS90

use vice grips or get a old bolt n cut the head of and weld it on top thats my fav one but ur choice

It's better to use a nut( the biggest possible) so you can weld on the inside to leave room on the outside for the spanner but good vice grips or stillsons as previously mentioned should do as there is pleanty of room to work

**aussiblue** · 12-12-2006, 09:58 PM

I think the crude pic was meant to be a metrinch socket; which should also work.

RIPGMH · 13-12-2006, 10:36 AM

I can't believe you nutcases hooking into your donks with a welder, your diesel fitters aren't you, admit it!

**Mechan1k** · 13-12-2006, 11:58 AM

No way in hell I'd weld something onto it ... that's for sure.

bonk182 · 13-12-2006, 12:45 PM

thanks aussieblue.. now let me repost
*ahem*

"what you need is a metrinch socket"

-James

:

StealthAu · 13-12-2006, 01:28 PM

It's amazing how many times the same suggestions can be repeated. come on has anyone else got any ideas? I know how about trying a socket or welding something on it

**Mechan1k** · 13-12-2006, 01:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by stockoau

It's amazing how many times the same suggestions can be repeated. come on has anyone else got any ideas? I know how about trying a socket or welding something on it

OK ... I'll go out on a limb and say .... maybe you could use a crowbar.
hee hee

:

13-12-2006, 02:10 PM

Do it like a man and use your teeth..

**Mechan1k** · 13-12-2006, 02:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BlackLS

Do it like a man and use your teeth..

The control arm gets in the way though for my fat head to fit

bodes-sh · 13-12-2006, 02:33 PM

well i have a thing that looks something like this

the part over the top moves, it is sorta spring loaded, and it has teeth on the inside, s basically you put it over something round, and as you push the teeth dig in and it should undo it, very useful for removing household taps as well that are too far into the wall to get a spanner onto...

in short it is basically like a shifter, but with teeth inside it...i have no idea what it's called