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Old 16-03-2008, 01:30 PM   #31
99auforte
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Here's todays results in photo form

This one is of normal operating temp (on the gauge)

http://adelaidedatacabling.com/images/16032008.jpg


45 mins later at top of the hill (the expressway) note Odo reading
http://adelaidedatacabling.com/images/16032008(001).jpg

1 minute after that - all is normal see the Odo reading
http://adelaidedatacabling.com/images/16032008(002).jpg

My VN Commodore does this too on these hills - mind you - god knows whats wrong with that car.
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Old 16-03-2008, 01:36 PM   #32
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When going up hills, does your aircon shut down?
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Old 16-03-2008, 02:34 PM   #33
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Originally Posted by BLUEPRINT
When going up hills, does your aircon shut down?
No I leave it on MAX - which is circulating the inside air and fan on 1
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Old 16-03-2008, 04:17 PM   #34
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Ah... i have found with mine that with the aircon temporarily shuts down when travelling up steep inclines (like Mount Panorama), that means less load on the engine, more revs and steadier temperatures... now... has both fans been put under a load test?
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Old 16-03-2008, 04:28 PM   #35
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Originally Posted by BLUEPRINT
Ah... i have found with mine that with the aircon temporarily shuts down when travelling up steep inclines (like Mount Panorama), that means less load on the engine, more revs and steadier temperatures... now... has both fans been put under a load test?
I don't know - so it's safe to say 'No they haven't'


There is 1 interesting thing about the hills I am hitting, they are roads that have been cut through a hill - would the air in between the walls be say 'super heated' for lack of a better term?
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Old 16-03-2008, 04:50 PM   #36
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Originally Posted by 99auforte
I don't know - so it's safe to say 'No they haven't'


There is 1 interesting thing about the hills I am hitting, they are roads that have been cut through a hill - would the air in between the walls be say 'super heated' for lack of a better term?
not really mate... when there is no moving air, then the air inside the hill cavity can stay a bit warmer, but to that extent.

Try driving through it next time with the aircon on the normal setting and see if it happens again... cause i'm sure it will, but it just means no-one else can say that its the cause.
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Old 16-03-2008, 05:06 PM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 99auforte
Here's todays results in photo form

This one is of normal operating temp (on the gauge)

http://adelaidedatacabling.com/images/16032008.jpg


45 mins later at top of the hill (the expressway) note Odo reading
http://adelaidedatacabling.com/images/16032008(001).jpg

1 minute after that - all is normal see the Odo reading
http://adelaidedatacabling.com/images/16032008(002).jpg

My VN Commodore does this too on these hills - mind you - god knows whats wrong with that car.
What was the temp today? Also, have you done the same hill on a day of similar temperature, with the aircon off?

GK
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Old 16-03-2008, 05:49 PM   #38
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Originally Posted by GK
What was the temp today? Also, have you done the same hill on a day of similar temperature, with the aircon off?

GK

38 today - aircon was on - I thought the air-con off might make it worse - e.g. fans wouldn't necessarily be on just before going up the hill -
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Old 17-03-2008, 04:25 PM   #39
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It's booked in tomorrow for:

Full Flush - take radiator apart - flush hoses, engine block, replace water pump 'as a precaution' and re-fill with coolant, replace hoses. About $500 worth. Natrad confirmed that the coolant mixing would 'after a week' turn to ajelly type consistency and thus start to do what is happening.

As for my mechanic - after the hurls of abuse and total deniability about changing my red coolant to green looks like I'm unable to prove he's done anything. Guess the green coolant just appeared by itself - in honor of St. Pats day. bad thing for him is he is a small town mechanic - who relies on word of mouth....my mouth is bigger.
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Old 17-03-2008, 05:07 PM   #40
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Having a look through this entire thread again .... this is the exact same problem I had .... and it took me ages of trial and error and testing to try and sort it.

And this Summer has been cool for us in NSW ... so I haven't really ben able to test it properly this year.

Really ... I still don't know if I have fixed it properly either.

I have replaced literaly everything known to man under the bonnet cooling system-wise to try and rectify this issue too.

I even tested it on the dyno with an infra-red thermometer. And when the temps rise ... it was on the back of the head that was getting hot ... all of the hoses were welll under 100 deg C when the temp gauge was on RED.
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Old 17-03-2008, 06:48 PM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 99auforte
It's booked in tomorrow for:

Full Flush - take radiator apart - flush hoses, engine block, replace water pump 'as a precaution' and re-fill with coolant, replace hoses. About $500 worth. Natrad confirmed that the coolant mixing would 'after a week' turn to ajelly type consistency and thus start to do what is happening.
I have seen that "jelly" far to many times... and can be a prink to get out... just to annoy you... you could have saved some big $$ doing alot yourself... AFF and I could have helped you along the way... and 1 last thing i'd like to mention... see if you can sweet talk the Natrad guys into letting you do a Washing soda flush... it makes a big difference in cleaning the system out... get them to fit everything and only fill with water, you then add washing soda yourself, drive for a few days and take it back for the flush and new conditioner... btw, what conditioner are you going to use?
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Old 17-03-2008, 07:07 PM   #42
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Originally Posted by BLUEPRINT
I have seen that "jelly" far to many times... and can be a prink to get out... just to annoy you... you could have saved some big $$ doing alot yourself... AFF and I could have helped you along the way... and 1 last thing i'd like to mention... see if you can sweet talk the Natrad guys into letting you do a Washing soda flush... it makes a big difference in cleaning the system out... get them to fit everything and only fill with water, you then add washing soda yourself, drive for a few days and take it back for the flush and new conditioner... btw, what conditioner are you going to use?

I appreciate your help and I would have taken it, the problem is that I have no room at home, not the right tools and time, work takes me away from home from 6am - 6pm most days. Plus I need to be in the car driving it interstate on Thursday.

As for conditioner??? I don't know I showed them the problem - they told me this is what needs to be done.

This is what shits me about 'professionals' they are all out to get my money for as little effort as possible. I'm going to take time off soon and learn some mechanics so I know what I am doing. In my profession I turn up on time, I use the top cable and parts and I explain exactly what I am doing. I never rip off a customer and if I ever do make a mistake - I own up to it and fix it. I now understand why people worry about mechanics.
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Old 17-03-2008, 07:22 PM   #43
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Well i was a specialist and i prided myself on my professionalism and care i took with customers... thats why in my old town i had a very good name around the place. Yet here i am years later advising multiple forums for free... you can hardly call me a rip off then :P
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Old 17-03-2008, 07:38 PM   #44
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Looks like it'll be sorted nicely before you go on your trip then. Did you ask Natrad about TrickXd's thermostat modification? That would be worth doing I'd reckon.

Bummer about the mechanic giving you the run around! I hope you get that sorted okay too.

All the very best with it, and your trip.

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Old 17-03-2008, 08:04 PM   #45
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Originally Posted by GK
Looks like it'll be sorted nicely before you go on your trip then. Did you ask Natrad about TrickXd's thermostat modification? That would be worth doing I'd reckon.

Bummer about the mechanic giving you the run around! I hope you get that sorted okay too.

All the very best with it, and your trip.

GK

Thanks! - and yes I will definitely mention the thermostat mod as suggested - to me it makes sense, especially if it stops the power loss.
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Old 17-03-2008, 08:05 PM   #46
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Originally Posted by BLUEPRINT
Well i was a specialist and i prided myself on my professionalism and care i took with customers... thats why in my old town i had a very good name around the place. Yet here i am years later advising multiple forums for free... you can hardly call me a rip off then :P
Yep! and we need more of them - too many cowboys opening up shop it seems, it's the same in my trade too - a few cowboys gives a bad name to the industry.
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Old 18-03-2008, 07:12 PM   #47
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jobs done!

$530 later I have a new water pump, flushed system, new coolant, shorter 180deg thermostat, new cap. Car is all good now - cooler than ever before and no power loss up the hill.

Thanks for everyone's assistance and advice.
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Old 18-03-2008, 07:41 PM   #48
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 99auforte
jobs done!

$530 later I have a new water pump, flushed system, new coolant, shorter 180deg thermostat, new cap. Car is all good now - cooler than ever before and no power loss up the hill.

Thanks for everyone's assistance and advice.
Glad it's all sorted. What did the water pump look like inside? Pretty corroded? I wonder if 80 degrees will be too cold in Winter?

Well you can head interstate now with confidence!

Cheers,

GK
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Old 18-03-2008, 08:12 PM   #49
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Good to hear mate...
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Old 18-03-2008, 08:41 PM   #50
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Glad it's all sorted. What did the water pump look like inside? Pretty corroded? I wonder if 80 degrees will be too cold in Winter?

Well you can head interstate now with confidence!

Cheers,

GK

Wasn't too bad - but it was an after market Chinese brand I put in as an emergency so I felt better replacing it.
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Old 18-03-2008, 08:47 PM   #51
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Wasn't too bad - but it was an after market Chinese brand I put in as an emergency so I felt better replacing it.
Is that when the trouble started?
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Old 18-03-2008, 09:25 PM   #52
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Is that when the trouble started?

No, that was over a year ago I did that - along with the radiator
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