Crankshaft/flywheel bolt removal

[rondeo]

This was a good read:

http://mondeoclub.ru/forum/topic/143732/

Some highlights:

Don't use Chinese sockets

Consider using the starter motor

(I used a) 1.2m lever from the side (no hoist)

Problem with extensions they flex

(I) rounded the head of the bolt

etc

[cobrin]

do a lic. plate globe next

[rondeo]

I see it a possible issue without hoist.
For now I'm thinking 3/4" diameter extension from the side, but we'll see.
I think three members of this forum are looking at DIY timing belt change.
Any info and experience removing the bolt appreciated.

[NZ XR6]

Originally Posted by rondeo

This was a good read:

http://mondeoclub.ru/forum/topic/143732/

Some highlights:

Don't use Chinese sockets

Consider using the starter motor

(I used a) 1.2m lever from the side (no hoist)

Problem with extensions they flex

(I) rounded the head of the bolt

etc

Google translate? Clearly a fun job!



Sent from my SM-G9208 using Tapatalk

[bundybear75]

I believe this is what they use to tighten the crankshaft bolt (don't quote me though....)

[NZ XR6]

I've become a bit of a convert to proper ring spanners in the last couple of years. Sockets really aren't the best tool for exerting serious force on a bolt. - it's too easy for the socket to slip when using a power bar (and a length of pipe).

Sounds like a job for an impact wrench if there was enough space.

[bundybear75]

https://www.ebay.com.au/p/?iid=15255...D1218338899863

http://www.sptools.com/en/product-li...oval-tool.html

Straight from the horses mouth - what my mate the Mechanic used when he used to work at Ford

(Edit added link to SP tools site)

[rondeo]

Originally Posted by NZ XR6

I've become a bit of a convert to proper ring spanners in the last couple of years. Sockets really aren't the best tool for exerting serious force on a bolt. - it's too easy for the socket to slip when using a power bar (and a length of pipe).

Sounds like a job for an impact wrench if there was enough space.

I'd be thinking an impact socket, hexagonal won't slip.

From Ford workshop repair manual:

[Do not use power tools to remove the bolt] (with a picture of a rattle gun with red cross).

Unfortunately they didn't say why, as usual.

[Heat the bolt if required (pic of hot air gun) for 4 min +1 min if not successful] (then what?).

[Make sure the rubber is not damaged] (what rubber?).

Then there's 70Nm plus a further 60 degrees turn when installing new bolt, may need some serious leverage.

Just talk, trying to convince myself I can do it, or not, having never seen one before. Maybe 6 months to go.

[rondeo]

Have a laugh:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UDj0howkhDY

[aussiblue]

Straight from the horses mouth - what my mate the Mechanic used when he used to work at Ford

Yes; known as a Powerbar I have the ABW /Private Brand Tools version now sold as the Sidchrome version http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Sidchrome...UAAOSwnLdWqqgt

T&E Tools also have one http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/1-2-Drive...QAAOSwYvFZH-Jz I have also seen the Sidchrome/Private Brand/ABW ones go cheap on Grays online auctions where the have been flogging off, and are still flogging off, a lot of ABW and Sidchrome stuff over the last 12 months.

[cobrin]

ha ha ha don't use a rattle gun, but here, put this on the end of it and give it a whack with a 4lb hammer till it comes off?!?!?

I'll stick with a rattle gun me thinks.

[aussiblue]

ha ha ha don't use a rattle gun, but here, put this on the end of it and give it a whack with a 4lb hammer till it comes off?!?!?

I'll stick with a rattle gun me thinks.

Often there is no space to use a rattle gun and the power bar turns the single required hammer blow into an unturning motion without spinning the pulley.



As they say here http://www.tooldesk.com/automotive/P...oval-Tool.aspx

Generates up to 600 ft. lbs. of force which exceeds most 1/2” drive impact guns
• Bi-directional force loosens or tightens bolts
• Saves repair time – no need to remove parts to access the crankshaft bolt or harmonic balancer pulley
• Use where impact guns won’t fit
• Impact force ‘shocks’ bolts loose
• No compressed air required for operation
• Use with impact sockets

But yes I would stay away from the hammer or slogging ring spanners; I see rounded bolts as a likely outcome. Also the risk of missing or slipping off the spanner and hitting the radiator, your hand or some other expensive and vulnerable part.

[aussiblue]

But it's nice to know if the need arises that you can buy very expensive Beryllium Copper Alloy spark proof slogging/flogging/Striking ring spanners to beat into submission http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Spark-Pro...OpKNPkjokO3zxw as well as expensive extra large chrome ones http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/KC-Tools-...oAAOSw9GhYftxJ I expect they are meant for the oil and gas extraction industry (oil wells etc) but I might sell the house and buy a set for the shed.

[cobrin]

Originally Posted by aussiblue

Often there is no space to use a rattle gun and the power bar turns the single required hammer blow into an unturning motion without spinning the pulley.

that is one benefit I see with a powerbar, a good example for it's usage is the Subaru WRX.

[cobrin]

you know what, that day was today....and there's no way I'd get a power bar impact wrench to do the job on the Mondeo now.



It's heavily loctited and the last thing I wanted were shock loads/chattering through the crank, cam, flywheel pin, flywheel ring gear lock and associated items. If you're doing the timing belt or need the crankpulley removed get a Diesel Setting Kit. Made the job easy with a simple breaker bar, well till you're clear of the loctite. It's freakishly (surprisingly) easy to turn the crank and if that happens without you knowing bye bye engine, she'll lunch itself.

[aussiblue]

Nice new video today from Alan Howatt on Cambelt Replacement Ford Mondeo Mk5 2L Diesel https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=toKv2yUoU6Y Follow on from https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ACXiKbkXhvM

[aussiblue]

...and https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OWkTJToMW1M

[aussiblue]

you know what, that day was today....and there's no way I'd get a power bar impact wrench to do the job on the Mondeo now.

Actually once you have used a Powerbar a couple of times and become confident and proficient at using it so you undo the crank pulley nut with just one sharp blow every time, you realise this is the best as safest way to do it. And you can use it from below with the Powerbar used parallel to the ground and hit from the side so to speak. The Powerbar is specidically designed for this job so all the force is rotational and only applied to the bolt. But yes; whatever tool is used you should warm up the bolt with a heat gun to soften the locking sealant/loctite first.

[rondeo]

That video:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=toKv2yUoU6Y

linked above would be a great help for anyone doing one for the first time.

Fortunately or unfortunately the DIYer would probably only get to do it once, as it's a 10 yearish affair.

I did two because we have two 2011 MCs.

Being retired I had plenty of time.

I think I spent three days on each.

Here are a couple of things I did (apart from angst), maybe of interest:

1. I changed the waterpump, idler, tensioner and crankshaft oil seal.. I don't think the Ford scheduled service includes the waterpump or seal. I bought an aftermarket waterpump but eventually found the Ford more to my liking, mainly because the seal and general quality looked better.

2. I couldn't see the pointer on the tensioner without a mirror. I finished up using a webcam.

3. I didn't use a rattle gun because I was afraid that it might damage something, since the manual indicated NO RATTLE GUN. I used heat and a 3' lever on 3/4 extension bar. I supported the extension on a jackstand at the elbow as it were.

4. When installing the new belt I rotated the crank sprocket so the key was touching the right hand side of the groove. When the tensioner was released and while adjusting the pointer, tension was equalized on both sides of the crankshaft and the key finished up in the middle of the keyway.

4. I replaced the crankshaft bolt with a new one, as is suggested in the Ford manual. I cleaned the old bolt of threadlock, ground off half the diameter for a half inch at the end and used it with compressed ar to clean out the threadlock remaining in the crank, which wass very enthusiastically applied, as Alan Howatt found.

All the best - rondeo.