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Old 28-05-2007, 03:18 PM   #1
RG
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Default AUII IRS Handbrake

I've done a search and had a read but for the life of me I still can't figure it out. I've removed the rubber grommet from the rear disc and I've found what looks like it is an adjuster, the inspection hole is at 3 o'clock on the pass side / 9 o'clock on the drivers when I can see the adjuster. Now which way do I turn it? I reckon I could almost get a small flat blade screwdriver in there but I just need to know whether I turn the screw clockwise or anti clockwise on each wheel.

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nah mate, aussie cars are the besterest and funnerest, nothing beats them, specially a poofy wrong wheel drive
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Old 28-05-2007, 05:11 PM   #2
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Turning it clockwise lengthens the adjuster. It's hard to do though. Easiest way is to follow the steps below. BUT, before you start, back off the 10mm adjusting nut at the handbrake lever inside the car, until it's all the way to the top of the threaded rod. This will enable you to do some adjustment from within the car once the handbrake starts to loosen off after 6 months or so, and means you won't need to repeat these steps for 12 or 18 months.:

1. Undo the little phillips head screw
2. Take the disc off
3. Do a 1/2 turn adjustment on the adjuster
4. Refit the disc - it should slide on easily
5. Repeat steps 2 to 4 until when trying to fit the disc, it's tight. When you get to this point, don't force the disc on - remove it
6. Back the adjuster off 1/2 turn.
7. Refit disc.
8. Refit screw
9. Repeat for other side
10. Test handbrake.
Your handbrake should be nice and tight.
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Old 28-05-2007, 05:52 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JC
Turning it clockwise lengthens the adjuster. It's hard to do though. Easiest way is to follow the steps below. BUT, before you start, back off the 10mm adjusting nut at the handbrake lever inside the car, until it's all the way to the top of the threaded rod. This will enable you to do some adjustment from within the car once the handbrake starts to loosen off after 6 months or so, and means you won't need to repeat these steps for 12 or 18 months.:

1. Undo the little phillips head screw
2. Take the disc off
3. Do a 1/2 turn adjustment on the adjuster
4. Refit the disc - it should slide on easily
5. Repeat steps 2 to 4 until when trying to fit the disc, it's tight. When you get to this point, don't force the disc on - remove it
6. Back the adjuster off 1/2 turn.
7. Refit disc.
8. Refit screw
9. Repeat for other side
10. Test handbrake.
Your handbrake should be nice and tight.
Tried that but one of the little screws was on so tight I started to rip it a new one, funnily enough the other side was so loose it didn't need any force whatsoever. I've now cracked the sads and called a mobile brake guy to come and do it. Only costing me $25 for him to come out and do it for me too, I just have to have the car up with the wheels off first. I must also remember to back that nut at the lever all the way off to the top of the rod too.
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Old 28-05-2007, 07:44 PM   #4
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$25 is not too bad. Those screws can be tight first time (takes you back a few years, doesn't it??) - I generally use a screwdriver drill bit, and use it in a 1/4" socket to undo it. That way you can press it in while undoing the screw.
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The Hammer: FG GTE | 376rwkw | 1/4 mile 11.793 @ 119.75mph 1.733 60' (4408lb)
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Mods: Tune, HSD/ShockWorks, black GT335 19” staggered replicas with 245 & 275/35/19 Michelin Pilot sport 5s

Daily: BF2 Fairmont Ghia I6 ZF, machine face GT335 19” staggered Replicas with 245s and 275s, Bilsteins & Kings

FPV 335 build stats: <click here>

Ford Performance Club ACT

Last edited by JC; 28-05-2007 at 07:54 PM.
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Old 28-05-2007, 08:17 PM   #5
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I had a bugger of a time too but managed to get done after a couple of attempts.
I had trouble seeing the adjuster as its on a awequid angle. I ended up taking the rotor off which was a mission in its self so I could see what was going on and which way to turn the adjuster, had to use a puller, loads of CRC and a few heavy taps with the hammer to get the rotor off the adjusted and measured the hadbrake shoes to get the right adjustment, I got the distance from the Ellory's manual. Hope it makes sence and it helps you out.
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Old 28-05-2007, 08:38 PM   #6
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Ill have to try that this weekend as mine aint grabbing much right now.

cheers guys
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Old 28-05-2007, 08:54 PM   #7
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You guys oughta invest in an impact driver for those tight phillips/slot heads.



Had mine around 30 years and have used it many, many times. I can't recall ever being caught out since I've had it.

From memory it was around $20 way back then so probably somewhere around $500 now, lol.

edit: there ya go... the only one on ebay

http://tinyurl.com/yphxnw
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Old 28-05-2007, 09:55 PM   #8
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The screw was a piece of cake to undo it was the actual rotor that was a bugger as corrosion was bonding it to the hub. A puller, CRC and a fer moderate but firm taps with a ball peen hammer did the trick
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Old 28-05-2007, 11:13 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 347 mont
The screw was a piece of cake to undo it was the actual rotor that was a bugger as corrosion was bonding it to the hub. A puller, CRC and a fer moderate but firm taps with a ball peen hammer did the trick
If you leave the car out of gear, and leave the handbrake off, then a couple of hits with a rubber mallet while rotating the disc is the easiest way to get it off. You just hit it from the back of the disc, at the spot where the dust shiled behind it is missing - sort of the bit of the disc facing the front, if that makes sense.
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The Hammer: FG GTE | 376rwkw | 1/4 mile 11.793 @ 119.75mph 1.733 60' (4408lb)
1 of 60 FG MK1 335 GTEs (1 of 118 FG Mk 1 & 2 335 GTEs).
Mods: Tune, HSD/ShockWorks, black GT335 19” staggered replicas with 245 & 275/35/19 Michelin Pilot sport 5s

Daily: BF2 Fairmont Ghia I6 ZF, machine face GT335 19” staggered Replicas with 245s and 275s, Bilsteins & Kings

FPV 335 build stats: <click here>

Ford Performance Club ACT
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