Greetings and need advice on EA

[locknut]

Hey all, I recently broke my gear box in my Galant GSR (2nd one in 5 years..) and was chasing a run-about for the meantime. I had a choice of a few cars, and narrowed it down to a neat KB laser, and an EA falcon, same-ish price. So I got my act together, and of course am picking up the EA tonight.

Here's some details:
It's a very straight example, however the red paint has faded. It's a 4/1989 model, so it's a series 1, and yes it only has the CFI. However I was wanting to make it a bit more fun, or more than a daily hack, and seeing as tho it has a fresh 10 000km HM GEM reco motor in it I wanted to change a few things.

It's got a quiet 2.5" system already on it, but still has that ugly choked up ex-manifold, so I'll change that to either the 4499 (bigger pipes) or 4480 (supposed to be comp) Pacemaker extractors... Why does the Comp headers have smaller primary's and secondary's as apposed to the cheaper 4499 headers?

I also wanted to change the cam, to either a MILD or a MED spec Crowe cam, but the guys there have advised me not to with the CFI currently fitted. What can I do to this car without getting the MPI, please?!

[XRated]

Mate, first thing people are going to suggest is to ditch the CFI for MPFI!! It's probably the cheapest thing you can do for the best bang for your buck - otherwise it's just going to choke any other mods you do. It's fairly cheap to do and has been covered many times.

After that, extractors and cam are a good step, however being an early model EA you'll have a very tall diff ratio that's going to hinder your accelleration. Changing it to 3.27, 3.45 (XR), 3.7, 3.9 etc will see a substantial improvement in first gear. I also take it that it's a 3-speed auto? If so, a 5-speed conversion will see massive benefits in speed and economy (I'd personally do this second, after MPFI).

In re. to extractors, both are excellent but the comp are supposed to be the better of the two for mid-high end power (I think!).

Hope it helps

[locknut]

Thanks mate, Diff is a good option as it will make better use of what power is already there. But I'd have to get the speedo re-calibrated, anyone kno of that cost? Yup it's the reliable 3 spd.

I've been told the MPI would cost about $1000 to get setup properly, so if that's accurate, it's a bit much for me.

The extractors still confuse me, as the Comp name suggest better mid - top end, but smaller pipes would be more restrictive.. BUT a good system isn't always big pipes, straight thru is most important. It's got me scratching my head why the comp has smaller ones tho.. argghh!!

In the short text, the Galant was pretty quick, and beat VN's, not easily, but it ИИИ did! Can I get the EA to do that with CFI still intact? Surely there must be some people here with EA's w/CFI and some good mods. I do realize it must be on this forum somewhere, so I'll keep searching! Cheers fella's!

[XRated]

Nah, MPFI shouldn't cost much more than $300 if I'm not mistaken??

VNs are pretty quick for crappy built, light ИИИИИ boxes.... Good low down torque and much better gearing (much shorter 1st gear in the auto).

[ilsautomotive]

Welcome

If you're into DIY, MPI can be done for very little. As Luke said it is the biggest weakness, along with the diff ratio and transmission gearing.

Has your Galant got that electrically adjustable suspension by the way? I used to have a brochure for a pre-V6 Galant, it was quite interesting.

[locknut]

I would like to tackle the MPI certainly if it can be done for $300, that's an extra 20kw!! - Any members in ACT who have done this?! Must be heaps! lol


Yeah the HG and HH Galant GSR's were fitted with ECS (electronically controlled suspension). It was u-beaut in it's day, but too $$ to fix. Mine was replaced with KONI sport, and low King springs when I got it - Which was a nice setup, it did handle very very well. I really want to fix the gear box when I can as it's a sweet ride indeed..

But for the momment, I'm looking forward to the Falcon which should be in my possession in less than 2hours. It's stock as, and RWD like my first 1976 Galant w/2.6 from years ago. Can't wait, my mates can't believe me, as it would use to be like the 3rd last car I'd buy!

[Brent79]

There was even one guy in brisbane who was GIVING AWAY an MPI setup. Seriously dude, MPI stuff is going on ebay for as little as $20 for manifold, $20 for ECU and $20 for fuel pump (if ya lucky) shouldnt cost ya anymore than $200 if ya do it yerself. If u dont think u can, ask someone to come help you as there are ALOT of nice people on the forums willing to lend a hand (usually if beer is supplied)

Brent

[sphell]

The comp series are supposed to have better scavenging of the combustion chambers than the regular Pacies. Also I think the primaries are all the same length which gives the comp series their unusual shape. I used to have them on my EA, they were good headers. I think I got them off ebay for $495 or something.

Whether they are worth the price difference over the regular Pacies is up to you, I doubt you'd actually feel a difference between the two.

[BoZZa17]

yeah as sp hell said
the smaller 'pipes' to a larger exhaust system helps to 'suck' the exhaust gasses out of the chamber.

smaller 'pipes' are better!

[locknut]

Cheers for the tips gents. Well I got it tonight, and we went for a cruise, pretty nice for a taxi (it's not a taxi, but after driving Jap cars, that's what I've always called falcon's and commodores, lol), just needs a few things.

I got a RWC inspection before my purchase to see if it was worth it. The car only cost me $500. I need to get the following done:
1/ Rear lower control arm bushes - I thought it was the diff, but it's not.
2/ Rear axle seals are leaking
3/ Middle muffler has a hole in it - it's 2.5" sys already, so gonna get a Walker / Lukey type welded in
4/ Handbrake doesn't work

1/ I've been told to replace the whole lower control arms at $88 a pair, as it's easier than fitting new bushes apparently.
2/ Does anyone know if the rear seals are behind or outside the axle bearings?
3/ I'd be right with any mild steel sports muffler, yeah? Or is there a particular type recommended?
4/ Should be able to find the h/brake fault myself, unless there's a common weak point?

Thanks heaps again guys, Let you know the progress...

[ilsautomotive]

If you are changing to a later model diff, I think you'd need to replace those bushes anyway. I paid $70 for a 3.08 diff with 28 spline axles from an ED, which was preferable to my 2.77 25 spline EA diff. The guy who did mine replaced the entire arms. I'd look at getting the lot done at once.

About the handbrake, I'd start by replacing the cable - there should be a procedure in your workshop manual if you have one. It would be the most common handbrake related fault.

Not so sure about the other points.

[Paris Hilton]

Front handbrake cable is $40, brand new from Ford Spares in Fyshwick. Mines broken too :(

[Kenaz]

My Mum used to own a 92 Galant SE with BBS mags, lowered suspension and sports exhaust. It was a pretty nice car

Also, MPI conversions can be done for less than $200. Although I probably spent close to $1000 getting mine going back in the day :

Welcome to the forums :

Ash

[snypereb]

Yeah ditch the cfi go mpfi im in the process of doing this conversion!

[locknut]

$40 for new cable, I guess that's alright a. I've gotta find what's actually wrong, but this sounds like another common issue..

Update: got some Nulon throttle body / carb cleaner - ИИИ hell this is a nice product. Dissolves all the gunk and crap in the throat and manifold. Engine response was an instant improvement, and I noticed I definetly need a new air filter - this one has complimentary bugs / insects installed.

Getting my super turbo muffler replaced with a more straight thru one on Tuesday at Phillip Exhaust Centre, it's under new ownership and the big new guy is a good bloke, he'll look after it.

Looks like the control arms won't be much hassle to replace, I can get them for $88 pair with bushes installed, not sure on the brand. Autobarn have got the Nolathane ones for $145 / pair..

One thing of concern is the oil around the transmission. This is a common issue right? But maybe just normal wear and tear. It appears the auto's sump gasket (that's what I'm gonna call it) is where it's leaking.. Anything else I should look out for in these boxes?

[legend131268]

check the handbrake levers on the back of the brake calipers and see if they move when u pull the handbrake, they are known to seize and will require a caliper seal kit ( around 20 bucks each side) dont get the dearer kit that contains the piston unless u absolutely need it, they are about 80 bucks