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OzECruisers General Discussions E/N/D vehicles General Discussion ONLY. NO TECH THREADS |
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22-12-2006, 05:55 PM | #1 | ||
rofl copter
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Werribee
Posts: 3,692
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hey guys im removing a head of a ed and one of the bolts has been stripped (was worn before we touched it and we made it worse) we have tried a rattle gun but my little air compressor couldnt keep up and doesnt have enough pressure. is it possible to weld a nut or somthing to the top of the bolt?
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22-12-2006, 06:02 PM | #2 | ||
Donating Member
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: QLD
Posts: 11,836
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You are using a single hex socket? If not it might work .It will be much better than double hex.
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22-12-2006, 06:05 PM | #3 | ||
rofl copter
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Werribee
Posts: 3,692
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yeah im using a impact socket, didnt have a single problem with the rest >.< any one know if you can weld to it?
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22-12-2006, 06:06 PM | #4 | ||
You win again, gravity!!!
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Mickelham, Melbourne
Posts: 2,513
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File or grind all the sides down to a smaller hex size, and use a single hex socket with a long breaker bar.
Usually I grind a screwdriver slot into the hex, but I doubt you'll crack a headbolt with a screwdriver :P
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1966 Fairlane 500 XL
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22-12-2006, 06:08 PM | #5 | ||
rofl copter
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Werribee
Posts: 3,692
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lol yeah could work, was thinking of somthing a little easier. valve spring gets in the way a bit. i know this may sound stupid to some, but could i cut it off with a grinder, the block will be tossed anyway but once its cut it should be free on the bottom anyway?
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22-12-2006, 06:11 PM | #6 | ||
You win again, gravity!!!
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Mickelham, Melbourne
Posts: 2,513
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if thats the case just drill the thing out...
if you do get the hex head off, IIRC the thread on the head bolt doesn't go into the head, so once the hex head is off, you should be able to get the cly head off.
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1966 Fairlane 500 XL
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22-12-2006, 06:16 PM | #7 | ||
rofl copter
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Werribee
Posts: 3,692
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yeah sounds like a good idea to me, we will soon find out if it is hardend or not :P
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22-12-2006, 06:24 PM | #8 | ||
rofl copter
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Werribee
Posts: 3,692
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well ive started drilling, slowly as my good drill has run out of brushes. but its working so far, the battery is charging
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22-12-2006, 08:00 PM | #9 | ||
rofl copter
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Werribee
Posts: 3,692
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whell i got it, very minimal damage to the actual head but it just on the inside of the through hole for the headbolt so it wont do anything :P thanks guys
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22-12-2006, 08:11 PM | #10 | ||
Gunna girlie-man
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Bayswater North, victoria
Posts: 2,587
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good work josh, i wouldnt have been keen on the welding idea, with the amount of heat generated
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22-12-2006, 08:45 PM | #11 | ||
rofl copter
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Werribee
Posts: 3,692
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nah the head would have taken the heat, just wasnt sure if the headbolts were hardend, because if they are its very very difficult to weld to.
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22-12-2006, 09:53 PM | #12 | ||
LOW AND SLOW
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Geelong.
Posts: 2,644
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Yeah grind a slot into it and use a screwdriver. Ive done it myself 3 times. All the best 2 ya.
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22-12-2006, 10:18 PM | #13 | ||
rofl copter
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Werribee
Posts: 3,692
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its a bit hard to crack a headbolt with a scew driver. id say the screwdriver would brake long before it would crack the headbolt
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22-12-2006, 10:23 PM | #14 | ||
LOW AND SLOW
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Geelong.
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If the slot is deep enough and you using quality brand screwdriver you should have success.
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22-12-2006, 11:26 PM | #15 | ||
rofl copter
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Werribee
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i still wouldnt trust it, i have a decent screw driver set, wasnt expensive but wasnt a cheap one and i wouldnt bother trying lol
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23-12-2006, 03:50 AM | #16 | ||
let it burn
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: QUEENSLANDER!!!!!
Posts: 2,866
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Impact driver???
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23-12-2006, 09:17 PM | #17 | |||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: G-Town, VIC
Posts: 783
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Quote:
Fella at work was doing the same thing and kaboom.... : I guess the best way is to turn off the tank and let the manifold and head all air out for a while (or blow out with compressed air perhaps)
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24-12-2006, 12:24 AM | #18 | ||
Banned
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Melbourne, Eastern Subs.
Posts: 2,281
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If you're a hack like me and the head and motor isn't yours, I suggest going ape with a grinder. I got the head off, I wouldn't say it was in mint condition though.
Sundeep |
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24-12-2006, 11:24 AM | #19 | ||
rofl copter
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Werribee
Posts: 3,692
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yeah impact driver would struggle, we had a rattle gun on it with a impact socket and still no go
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24-12-2006, 10:16 PM | #20 | ||
let it burn
Join Date: Feb 2006
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I tried rattle gun on a car we stripped, the bolt heads were all stuffed, all but 3 IIRC. Couldnt use a 6 sided socket as the bolthead shape was 12 sided, sort of like a torque or some such. Ended up just tossing the whole donk, the only way to get it off was to stuff it.
I assume the last person to touch the head didnt replace the headbolts. If it was only one or two, i would have tried slotting the bolt heads and an impact driver, they have different forces to a rattle gun. Im not sure how tight the bolts are, but its clear they are tight enough. Ive never had that drama pulling a head, except an Alfa V6 with headstuds. |
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