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OzECruisers General Discussions E/N/D vehicles General Discussion ONLY. NO TECH THREADS |
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05-12-2006, 11:52 AM | #1 | ||
Starter Motor
Join Date: Sep 2006
Posts: 2
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Hi All,
Just need some help with some of the issues I have been having with my EL. 1. Suspension I have had it for over 16 months now and had it converted to LPG after a month or so. It felt a little light to drive after conversion probably due to the extra weight of LPG tank in the back. A while back I thought of having the 28 point suspension check done by Pedders. They said that front and rear shocks, sway bar d bushes and lateral arms watts link bushes are worn. They gave a quote of around $1000 for all of the above. Can anyone recommend what shock absorbers should I go for? And shall I put some stronger springs at the back to supplement extra weight of LPG tank? I also get a bit of vibration is steering at times especially around 90+km/h speed. I’ve had the tyres checked, had wheel balancing and alignment done but a slight vibration is still there. I was told by the Pedders mechanic that it probably was due to the worn shocks. 2. Brakes I had the front disk rotors machined once but after that they did not last too long to I got it changed with a pair of standard rotors I got from AutoPro. (Had a very bad steering vibration after I had the disk rotors done.) Now after approximately 10 months and around 25000 km they have bent a bit and would require replacement Shall I go for the slotted rotors, considering I travel a lot and about quarter of it is on freeway. Any recommendations on what brakes pads shall I go for? The RDA slotted rotor is around $150 a pair and the standard one is around $95 from AutoPro. 3. Engine miss fire Lately I’ve noticed that if I am driving up the hill or just try to speed up a little bit, the engine might miss fire. I haven’t had the spark plugs replaced for the last 30K. So I was thinking of changing them. I am not too sure which one to go for Bosch or NGK? I mostly drive on LPG so I am not too fussed about the performance on petrol. Shall I change the distributor rotor as well? My EL does around 5km/lit on LPG. Is this a good average on LPG? I have not had the O2 sensor changed since I got my car. Shall I get that replaced or don’t touch it till I start getting poor consumption? Is it easy to change the shocks and the bushes considering I have not done it before? Any suggestions/recommendations for the above issues would be great? Thanks in advance. xclusive.... |
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05-12-2006, 12:49 PM | #2 | ||
xc - my other love
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Chadvagas
Posts: 594
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Suspension: can we please get a sticky on this, it comes up at least once a week...
anyway, i have shortened pedders sports ryders. nice ride, sporty yet still comfy i would reccommend getting springs done to suit your taste. $1000 bucks prob aint to bad if it is for parts and labour, especially if you are getting shocks. expect to pay around half the price of shocks for a set of springs. Vibrations: get suspension done. also, if you know you have a shagged disk, then that is most likley the cause: unbalanced/bent disk = vibrations, particularly when braking Brakes: can we also get a sticky on this? anyway: Personally, i would go for standard disks but upgraded pads, thats it. At the moment i have that setup and heres why i think it's better: Firstly, slotted/drilled rotors (bang for buck) arnet that good unless you intend to use them (i.e. on the track). you will pay more money, for something that you just dont need. and if you want to spend the money on them because you CAN warrent them, you should be buying good ones, or there is no point. Yes there is less heat dissapation and if you don't get the good ones, they will crack/warp/f*%K up. also, to warrent wicked good brakes, you need to have the rubber to support it, no point in spending $$$ on brakes, if abs kicks in and you don't stop anyway. you'll also need to have the shocks to support it, as if the weight dosen't shift quickly/properly to the front, once again, abs kicks in, and your $$$ brake upgrade is pointless. if it is for street use only, then get really soft street pads, and you will stop as good as your tyers and suspension will let you. (you will also be cleaning your rims alot!). of course slotted are better, but keep in mind you will also be replacing them twice as fast, and the pads will wear heaps quicker too. My uncle owns ABS in morwell, and he agrees with me, it's definatly not worth it unles you have the setup and need for them, he recommended the setup i have, and my car stops pretty damn good in my opinion... STANDARD DISKS WITH WICKED GOOD PADS is more than you need (bendex ultimates are pretty good). Engine Change your plugs leads and dizzy cap, rotor button, the lot (EL arent coil pack are they??) sounds like the car is in desperate need of some love, you may as well do fluids and filters while your at it. 5km/L, how big is the tank? 5km/L *40L = 200km per tank, not to bad i guess, but i don't do gas, someone else?? *edit: if you don't know what you are doing with the bushes, leave the suspension to the pros, compressed springs are very dangerous...
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Power = Money
How fa$t you wanna go?? apparently pretty fast - 400rwkw BF xr6t! FG F6 bottom end - GTX3582 - Nizpro 4" exhaust - Nizpro cooler - plazmaman intake - piping - plenum - batt relocation - injectors - surge &044 pump - valve work & valve springs - XCAL |
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05-12-2006, 02:27 PM | #3 | ||
Turning towards the dark
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Mudgee
Posts: 126
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on the gas side of things, change your plugs and lead, also check out the dissy cap and rotor button.
as for consumption, i get an avg. of 16l/100 (70/30 town / country) driving my auto EF sedan. |
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05-12-2006, 03:13 PM | #4 | |||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Brisbane
Posts: 3,568
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