DFB's Garden

[DFB FGXR6]

The end of winter, and the moment I dread every year.....................potting.



I will say, now that I basically take charge of this task, I have implemented several changes to reduce the burden on both me and other staff. Simple changes that reduce fatigue on the body, reduce time wasting and improve overall organization. Does that sound like me?

For example, potting was always left to the very very last minute, then it was a mad rush to power through it, all with the increased customer flow brought on by Spring. Now, I start potting selectively mid-season, getting through surplus stock that reduces the load later on in the season. Most of that is stock that was always intended to be potted rather than sold bare root.

I also INSIST every batch (usually 5 to 10 trees, or per pallet) is stock balanced and converted to a potted barcode price immediately. Previously, it was always such a rush to just get them potted, then deal with the prices later. This then required a staff member (me) having to trapse through pallets of trees hunched over attaching prices to the bags in the days/weeks ahead. Doing it as we go, it also means I can sell the tree straight away if needed, no fumbling around for a price because "they have just been potted". This might sound like a trivial thing, but trust me, it was a nightmare that ended up being more time consuming than it should be.

Again, the rush to get everything in a pot meant we would go through and water everything at the end of the day. When you have something like 500 trees to thoroughly soak in less than an hour, well, it led to a half-ars.d job. Now, every pallet is soaked as we go, nothing missed, everything soaked properly to eliminate air pockets.

Speaking of pallets, this was never a thing. Trees would be potted and then dumped in lines of genus/species on the loading dock, something that would end up being a crazy maze of trees. They would then be loaded onto a single pallet and wheeled into the nursery on a manual pallet jack. So, you would end up triple handling every single potted tree.

Previously, we would load up a tandem trailer with potting mix to work from on the loading dock. For me, this created two problems. It meant having tow and maneuver the trailer, something I struggle with. Actually, I have since learnt how to maneuver a trailer very well with one of the Dingo's. Secondly, the height of the trailer meant having to be hunched over for hours on end, I think a lot of my back issues stem from this. Now, I load up the old Nissan Navara which is used solely for this task or ground maintenance. It's also a tipper, which makes it very valuable assest. The height of the tray is at the perfect height, meaning I don't end up folded in half at the end of the day.

When the potting is all finished, it then needs to make its way into the nursery for sale. Having everything on a pallet in genus/species order, means it can be fed into stock with less fuss.

It took me 20 years to make those changes as a whole, it can be very hard to change the mindset of guys who have been doing it twice as long as you. At the end of the day, they are no longer "hands on", so doing things their way at my expense makes no sense just because "that's how we've always done it". And yet, those changes make a big difference in how things function, no more "just winging it"............which I truly detest!







Most of it is now done, progress came to a halt after running out of potting mix this afternoon. Still to go are the fruit trees, which go into the same sized bag as the ornamentals, then the larger weeping trees which go into larger 75 LT bags............the ones I dread.

[DFB FGXR6]

Pieris Japonica, another one of those plants that sits in the background for most of the year before bursting into prominence in late winter. This variety is most likely 'Temple Bells', which features pure white booms instead of the pink that characterizes other Pieris. Growing to 1.5 meters tall and 1.5 meters tall, it will take decades to reach those figures.





Pieris are best grown in part to full shade, morning sun at the most as they will otherwise burn in the summer sun. As part of the Ericaceae family, they share genes with Azalea's, Rhododendrons, Erica's, Blueberries and Epacris, therefore preferring slightly acidic soil. After flowering, feed with a Camellia and Azalea blend in spring, keep moist over summer.

[DFB FGXR6]

Clivia Miniata doing their thing......................





The cultural information regarding Clivia suggests that these plants can be grown in full sun. However, in areas where I live, the summer sun would be too harsh, and without the cover provided by a tree or patio, they will burn with exposure to frost. A lot of people will have these potted so they can be moved to suit the weather conditions. They are otherwise best planted under established trees to provide the necessary cover during the cold months. Even so, you can see some burnt foliage after a frosty winter just gone.

The other thing to note with Clivia is their toxicity to animals. If ingested, the bulb in particular, Clivia is toxic to both cats and dogs, potentially causing symptoms such as vomiting, low blood pressure and cardiac arrhythmia.

This website has a good listing of plants known to be toxic to animals -

https://bloominghaus.com/news/poison...%20the%20plant).

[DFB FGXR6]

The tell tale sign of a lot of hard work and frustration...................



Back when I started in the industry in the early 2000's, it was peak "lifestyle TV". In that I mean backyard make-over programs like Ground Force (Channel 7, BBC) and Backyard Blitz (Channel 9). The trend on these shows was to use a lot of strappy, colourful foliage. But not only that, everything was waaaay overplanted to make the finished result look nice for the camera.

The result of that meant our top sellers were anything with a strap-like foliage, think Cordyline, New Zealand Flax and Yucca's. We would get truckloads of Cordyline and Flaxes each week, despite the boss hating them, that's what customers wanted. I think you know where I'm going with this.

Well, just like the backyard makeover programs, these plants looked brilliant after they were installed, especially with a contrasting mulch. However, what the cameras didn't capture is how this plays out 2, 5, 10 years down the road. Most of the Cordylines that were in fashion were the type that grew a single stalk, so as the plant grew and shed older foliage, you ended up with an ugly bare stem. Those Cordylines, and Flax's too, would grow waaay taller and wider than many expected. And Yucca's, what makes them incredibly resilient also makes them a giant pain in the ar.se. With water, they grow very fast and very strong. To remove, you need heavy machinery or a very fit young man with an assortment of heavy-duty tools. Some resort to yanking them out with a chain and tow bar, some set fire to the stumps. You will also destroy a chainsaw on them too. And your hands due to the razor-sharp foliage. And people wanted these things!

Now, I think we only keep something like 10 to 15 Cordylines and Flaxes in stock at any one time, max! Yuccas? Apart from some modern, manageable forms here and there, we haven't carried them in a very long time.

[DFB FGXR6]

These stunning Hydrangea's are at peak beauty.......................



These plants have had a nice ride so far, the summer heat has taken a while to arrive this year, with plenty of mild warmth to promote vigorous growth. With 44 degrees expected tomorrow, I doubt they will survive unscathed as the afternoon sun whips around and fries those delicate leaves and petals. I think the owner is going to cover them with a sheet, but if the wind whips up, that won't last long.

[FTE217]

yes Hydrangea's are popping as is many other flower varieties.
Chrissy bush !
Agga's a plenty.

I'm in dires straits having been away on biz for a couple of weeks with chrissy festivities coming up and entertaining fam on Xeve and day omg.
My garden needs a hell of alot of hours leading into the 24th !!!!!
Trimming
Wash down house/windows/frames
Plant some newbies
Gurnie paths/outdoor areas, have had tradies doing work the last few weeks between mixing mud/cutting timber/dust etc - I'm going anal OTT about the mess and to do List and this frigging humidity !!
Oh well, look at it as fitness and sweating the grog out haha

[Professor Farnsworth]

I've been into plants since very young - my Mum had a huge vegie garden and both she and my Dad loved their trees, they added much greenery to anywhere they lived. For the last ten years of being where i am now, i've planted out what was a completely baron back yard into a mini-forest, mainly with natives to attract the bird life. Put a pond in, a corner garden of Kangaroo Paw, but most of the rest of the garden is two gigantic apple & plum trees, a skanky year-round lemon tree, every colour of Callistemon you could imagine, several Grevilleas, and a Leptospermum that said it would reach a maximum of 6 feet, which is currently around 12 feet tall, even after half of it splitting off under its own weight a while back. We had two Agapanthus randomly self-seed, which are going nuts currently. I've got all of mum's old indoor plants in the shaded area, and trying to keep 8 new Boronia's going in challenging conditions. Also currently growing a couple of orange Callistemon, but they're still small and the bugs love them. Just re-potted an Elephant Bush that i've had since the 80s! Our soil is 85% clay, 15% discarded building materials, and -2% dirt, so it's very difficult to find trees and plants that will thrive here. Iris's pop up like weeds here though, as does the Italian parsley i keep shaking around each year.

[FTE217]

Onya Professor sounds good and yes growing round clay is a PIA what survives.
Used to use a lot gypsum to help break it done and stimulate growth.
I hear the influence parents have - we lived on a barron 1/4 acre perfect canvas and our Mum was a huge garden luver and outdoor doer.
My bro ended up being a horticulturist landscaper and I followed getting stuck in my own places.
I do enjoy it a lot and maintaining.
My wife is even nuts she’s out there at times weeding watering just before dawn many times - our kids her the crazy mum haha


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[DFB FGXR6]

Well, with recent changes, I'm not sure if I should have this thread deleted. A lot of activities posted in this thread were employment related, in some ways I'm proud of what I achieved there, but it's also a reminder of a lot of aggravation.

Thing is, for the time being, I'm still working for myself in the horticulture field. Perhaps that will make me fall back in love with the trade, no longer associating it with difficult customers, freezing cold winter mornings, 45-degree summer days standing in the baking sun, or dealing with other humans.

So, this thread will take a different direction or end up being deleted, what do you think?

[Tonz]

happy for you, I hope and dont doubt you will be very successful in your new venture, be able and WILLING to turn away the Karens that infiltrate our neighbourhoods.

[Trendseeker]

I vote to keep the thread and take a different direction, wherever it leads.

[Cav]

It's history, keep it.

[Trendseeker]

Originally Posted by Cav

It's history, keep it.

Yes, there is a lot of useful reference material in the thread that I missed reading as it’s a bit hidden away in this section. And it would be good to ask DFB for advice occasionally if he’s still happy to provide it (and willing to forgive the odd silly question from the amateurs)? Maybe it be moved to The Bar where it would have more visibility and maybe rename it to something like Gardening/Landscaping etc.?

[DFB FGXR6]

Originally Posted by Trendseeker

Yes, there is a lot of useful reference material in the thread that I missed reading as it’s a bit hidden away in this section. And it would be good to ask DFB for advice occasionally if he’s still happy to provide it (and willing to forgive the odd silly question from the amateurs)? Maybe it be moved to The Bar where it would have more visibility and maybe rename it to something like Gardening/Landscaping etc.?

There are sections of this forum that tend to get overlooked, that's one of the reasons why I wanted to keep the Detailing thread in the Pub section. I kind of want to rename the thread, if it was moved that would be great too.

And yes, I'm more than happy to answer questions, despite what some might think, I know enough to be dangerous after 20 years doing it for a living.

[FTE217]

Just let the thread roll on where it goes by the posts.


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[mad2]

Originally Posted by DFB FGXR6

Well, with recent changes, I'm not sure if I should have this thread deleted..

So, this thread will take a different direction or end up being deleted, what do you think?

easy answer for you DFB ..... NO .. leave it and let it run with what it has and is.

[DFB FGXR6]

Pruning 101!

Pruning is one of those taboo topics in the horticultural world, often surrounded by a lot of procedural snobbery. While certain plants do require specific pruning technique, but by and large, horticulturalists waaaay over technify pruning. To reference Tarryl Dactyl, “it’s a plant, not the space shuttle”. I also remember watching the legendary Peter Cundall throwing traditional horticultural practice out the window, especially when it came to rose or lemon tree pruning. I just wish I could find the video of him attacking a rose bush with a chainsaw, much to the shudder of all those stuffy horticulturalists that would have been screaming at the TV.



Having said that, there are some basic guidelines to follow that can help a plant bounce back from pruning quicker or prevent adverse effects. Many of these are things I picked up over the 20+ years working in the industry.

- Don’t be afraid, plants are more resilient than you think. So if needed, get stuck into them and prune HARD. I’ve been doing this long enough to know that hard pruning will often freak out the ladies, whereas the males hack away without thinking. Somewhere in the middle is where you want to be.

- Having said that, be mindful that not all plants like to be hacked. Plants in the Lamiaceae family such as Lavender and Rosemary really dislike being pruned back into hard/old timber. I always prune back to just above where fresh(ish) foliage begins, going lower will often kill the plant as it just can’t regenerate from old material.

- For the most part, prune after flowering. When a plant is flowering, it’s basically pre-occupied, so regrowth during this period will be slower. Naturally, this can be hard when a plant is flowering for most of the year, for example Abutilon Chinese Lantern or Polygala.

- Never prune fruiting or ornamental cherries in the winter. This also applies to maple’s, especially Canadian or Japanese maples. In this instance, the tree is holding a lot of sap with its branches, meaning you risk bleeding the tree out by pruning in the winter. For these trees, its best to wait until the sap flow has begun in the spring, usually after flowering (cherries) or the fresh foliage has appeared.



- For most other deciduous ornamental or fruiting trees, winter pruning allows you to better see the structure of the tree. You also have less material to compost or dispose of.

- Prune Citrus after fruiting, ideally after the last frost to prevent fresh re-growth being frost burnt. And don’t be afraid to cut them HARD, it will keep the tree productive and keep the fruit at a reachable height.

- Only prune Hydrangea’s back by a 1/3 in the winter. If you cut back too much, you will hamper the production of flowers in late spring/early summer.

- If a plant is burnt by frost or hot summer conditions, refrain from immediately pruning the dead material off the plant. That damaged material is actually preventing further damage if the heat or frost continues. Wait until the last frost or early Autumn, lightly feed afterwards to support the regrowth.

- If a plant is struggling, often a heavy prune will stimulate new growth in a fight or flight type of situation.

- If a plant is struggling and has a lot of die back, you need to follow that dead material back and prune just above live material. If you don’t, that material will keep dying back and prevent the dormant buds from shooting. If you are unsure, lightly scrape the stem with your fingernail or secateurs, brown or grey indicates dead material, green, white or pinkish colour will indicate live material. Keep scraping until you find live material, then cut to the closest bud.

- For hedges, try to avoid tapering the sides inward as this reduces the light at the bottom of the hedge and promotes a gappy appearance. Easier said than done, try to allow the base of the hedge to flair out a little.

- Pruning deciduous fruit trees is a little more involved, an area I’m not an expert in despite living in a fruit growing area of the country. As a general guide, prune in winter and while the tree is dormant. In addition to shortening the tree to a more manageable height, you want to remove inward facing branches to open the inner structure and promote good airflow. Apples and pears are a little more involved as they produce spur wood, remove too much spur wood and you won’t get much fruit.

- If you compost your green waste, try running over it with the lawn mower beforehand. This will speed up the decomposition process and considerably reduce the bulk of the material. Obviously, you want to pick your mark here and not try and shred down large material. During clean ups, I’d often throw pruned material and weeds onto the surrounding lawn, then run over the area with the lawn mower afterwards.



Roses!

When and how to prunes roses is such a contentious subject, most tend to either not prune hard enough or over technify the process. I’d much rather a badly pruned rose than one not pruned at all. Try to keep in mind the following points, but don’t get too hung up on them.

- Prune HARD! Unless you prune below the graft, you are not going to hurt the plant, in fact it will promote stronger regrowth and superior flowers.

- Yes, you should prune back to an outward facing bud, angling the cut away from the bud to prevent rotting, and remove inward facing material to promote airflow and limit fungal problems.

- I find it can be easier to just hit the rose with the hedger or chainsaw, then go back and make your final cuts.

- DON’T start pruning roses on the first day of winter. I see it every year, people step into the garden ready to cut their roses back on June 1st. But in this area, you risk the plant re-shooting while the weather is still frosty, which in turn burns off those new shoots and setting the plant back. I always suggest pruning roses as late as possible, say late July to late August.

- Deadhead roses HARD. If you don’t, you won’t get quality flowers, and the plant just gets bigger and bigger and bigger. This is especially important on stalky Hybrid Tea varieties.

- If you have a lot of roses, think about having a bottle of metho to sterilize your cutting implements periodically. Also, consider spraying the plants and surrounding soil with Lime Sulphur immediately after pruning to kill off any lingering pests and fungal spores (black spot). I tend avoid using it as I can't stand the stench, it will linger for days. Also, never use this on foliage, it will burn.

https://www.bunnings.com.au/yates-50...AhPSi8x6TJsEpd



Tools -

Like any profession, the tools you use can make a big difference in the finished result, but also the user’s comfort. I could make an extensive list specific pruning tools here, but for the most part, 98% of the time I’m using just a pair of good secateurs. Prices for gardening tools vary widely, and while you generally get what you pay for, sometimes spending extra isn't warranted.

The following pruning tools are what you need at a minimum, along with a couple of luxuries for larger gardens –

Secateurs – I’ve had a lot and used a lot of secateurs over the years, some were great, some were woeful. I would say avoid the entry level $10 pair from Bunning’s, those are junk. I’d also say you don’t necessarily need the top of the line professional Felco’s that I have used for many years. Yes, those Swiss tools are nice, but I’ve also loved using a basic pair of Gardena’s for $35.

Of the Felco’s, you want No.8 (for right handers) or No.9 (for left handers) with the angled ergonomic handles. These tools are pricey but can be rebuilt as needed –

https://www.forestrytools.com.au/pro...1j8xADPIaTvCcd
https://www.forestrytools.com.au/col...felco-8-pruner



Otherwise, these are the German-made Gardena’s I’ve been using –

https://www.mitre10.com.au/gardena-g...E&gclsrc=aw.ds



If you struggle with arthritis, something like these powered Bosch secateurs can help massively reduce the force needed to cut through thicker or hard material.

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/17398637...BoCnr0QAvD_BwE





Adjustable Loppers – You don’t technically need the adjustable aspect, but it comes in handy and can negate the need for a ladder. Again, prices vary, so buy to suit your usage frequency.

https://www.bunnings.com.au/cyclone-...ndles_p3361019
https://www.bunnings.com.au/wolf-gar...opper_p0448993

Small Pruning Saw – This doesn’t need to be big, ideally you want something compact for space restricted areas. I have a small Ryset foldable saw that punches well above its size and price point.

https://www.theseedcollection.com.au...hoCOFkQAvD_BwE
https://www.bunnings.com.au/fiskars-...-sw68_p0541257

Pole Pruner – If you have trees, an extended reach pole saw and/or lopper is very handy to have. In my experience, just stick with the loppers, using a saw like this is cumbersome. At the moment I’m using the Fiskars version which has an adjustable angle for the loppers.

https://www.bunnings.com.au/fiskars-...runer_p3350854
https://www.bunnings.com.au/fiskars-...runer_p3350853





Hedge Shears – Even if you have a hedge trimmer, a set of traditional hedge shears is still worth having for areas where the powered trimmer won’t serve. I’d suggest paying a little more on these, I’ve had some garbage examples over the years. The telescopic versions are handy to have as well.

https://www.bunnings.com.au/fiskars-...shear_p3350821
https://www.bunnings.com.au/fiskars-...shear_p3350823
https://www.forestrytools.com.au/sea...hedge%20shear*

Small Chainsaw – Not everyone will need this, nor would you fell a tree with one, but a small battery powered chainsaw can be a life saver on small to medium limbs and for taming overgrown shrubs before making more precise cuts by hand.

Battery makes most sense here because you bypass the hassle associated with petrol-powered saws, not to mention being cleaner and quieter to use. For most, I’d suggest choosing a saw based on what battery system you have. If you want to go with a garden-specific brand, I think Husqvarna have an advantage here (their website is total garbage though). I would however avoid the EGO chainsaws, they are poorly designed in my opinion.



Sharpening Tool - A sharp tool will always cut better, which benefits the plant and your hands as you need less effort to make each cut. Having a small lapping file or cutter is worth having on hand.

https://www.bunnings.com.au/eze-lap-...xoCQ7cQAvD_BwE
https://www.forestrytools.com.au/col...ulti-sharpener

Multi-Purpose Lubricant - Not gardening specific, but handy for maintaining your tools. I like the WD-40 Specialist Lawn & Garden as it both cleans and lubricates, which is handy for dealing with sap residue. On hedge trimmers, I use a lanolin-based lubricant such as Briggs & Stratton Protect-It.

https://www.bunnings.com.au/wd-40-40...icant_p3410104
https://www.bunnings.com.au/briggs-s...iCWl7Pe3yk-CL1
https://powermowers.com.au/products/...ra1yD9G_MEClVg



Final Notes –

Just get stuck in. A neighbor once told me that plants are tougher than you think, and she was spot on there. I’ve absolutely hacked the guts out of plants I thought would never return, only for them to burst back to life. Naturally, some plants you need to be careful with, but for the most part I say go for your life.

And that's your bloomin lot!

[Tonz]

when I was a teenager my older couzin was very involved with NZ rose society, he was mortified when at our place one day dad took the loppers to the rose bushes down to almost root stock. Then few months later was stunned at the blooms dad produced
Butcher and it will grow was dads response

[DFB FGXR6]

Originally Posted by Tonz

when I was a teenager my older couzin was very involved with NZ rose society, he was mortified when at our place one day dad took the loppers to the rose bushes down to almost root stock. Then few months later was stunned at the blooms dad produced
Butcher and it will grow was dads response

I can't remember the number of times I've absolutely hammered a tree or shrub to the shock of a (usually female) client, only to see the plant respond and come back better than ever, often to great surprise.

[DFB FGXR6]

I have many favorite plants, but I probably have more that I don't like than I do. Here are a few sinners that have no place in any garden I have control over...............

Ceanothus papillosus 'Blue Pacific' - Californian Lilac

Look, this plant is lovely when it's in flower during spring, but every other aspect of the plant makes it a complete waste of space. In the nursery, I hated this plant because of how fast it would grow in the pot and transform into an ugly, woody and unsalable proposition. So, they had to sell virtually straight away, otherwise I'd have to be discounting them or throwing them out. They also don't respond to heavy pruning, which meant I couldn't cut them back and regrow them.

In the garden, those fast-growing tendencies and resentment of heavy pruning make it a dud in the garden as well. The shrub will grow to about 3 - 4 meters with ugly, woody growth. The foliage is small and while soft when fresh, it quickly turns hard and can cause skin irritation.

Overall, a plant that shines for about 1 week of the year, then looks horrible for the remaining 51. There are newer versions, but they are still fast growing and ugly.



Cytisus racemosus 'nana' – Dwarf Yellow Broom

This is another plant that shines for a week or two then blends into the background as a thoroughly unremarkable pain in the neck. Like above, this plant looks lovely when in full bloom, those bright yellow flower racemes positively radiate across a spring garden.

In the nursery, these would only sell when in flower, so if you over ordered and had some left over, they would sit in stock for another 12-months. And because they are so fast growing, they would quickly outgrow their post. Thankfully, they respond to heavy pruning and would rebound quickly to a sellable plant. But again, only if they were in flower. As such, I would waste time maintaining them for 12-months until they would flower again, by which time you'd make no money on them, in which case you may as well have given it away.

In the garden, despite the "nana" or "dwarf" tag, they would easily grow beyond the suggested height of 1 - 1.5 meters. In other words, they would outgrow their position, then require frequent heavy pruning to control. I've also found them very messy, producing a thick layer of dead leaves underneath the shrub. Oh, and its known to be weedy as well.





Tibouchina - Princess Flower, Glory Bush or Lasiandra

These plants can be stunning when in full flower, their large purple-mauve flowers certainly stand out in the garden. In the modern era, there are now smaller growing varieties that do well in small gardens or pots.

However, older varieties can get quite large and woody. And like the dwarf varieties, tall growing Tibouchina don't always respond to heavy pruning, so you really need to be mindful where they are planted. Both old and new dislike frost or hot summer sun, so you need to chose their position carefully.

In the nursery, only the newer "Baby" varieties were stocked. Even still, I was always trying to manage these things, they had to sell fast, or they would just get lanky and unattractive. Quite often, people only bought these due to the flashy label. The below image is as good as they will ever look, and I can tell this particular plant would have been heavily manipulated to achieve that look for a photo shoot, then turned to crap afterwards.



Echium candicans - 'Pride of Madeira'

These plants are often used in cottage gardens, and at one point about 15-years ago, they became quite trendy for their architectural look. They grow fast and tolerate dry conditions but do best with some moisture, I always found they would wilt quickly in the nursery or garden. The large blue flower spears appear in spring-summer.

However, they are relatively short lived, anywhere between 3 - 5 years. The plant becomes ugly after its first flowering, and they don't like heavy pruning in an attempt to tidy them up. The stems of the plant also have thin hairs that will leave tiny little prickles on your hands if not handled with gloves..............very painful and hard to remove, ask me how I know.

Again, they had to sell quickly or would look terrible and virtually unsalable.



Coleonema pulchrum - Pink or Golden Diosma

These plants were very popular through the 80's and 90's and continue to be a consistent seller. These small to medium shrubs are at their best when in flower from autumn to spring, typically a stary pink or sometimes white. They are tolerant to most conditions, including drought and heavy frost, and are not fussy with soil type either. Golden Diosma in particular provide year-round interest with that lime green to bright yellow foliage. They also tolerate mild to heavy pruning, so they can be kept in any shape you like.

However, I hate these plants! Yes, they can look nice when in flower, and the golden form does inject colour. But Diosma's are such a dated plant, they were heavily planted in both commercial and private gardens, to the point of commonness. The ultra fine foliage is difficult to prune neatly, it tends to fold over instead of cutting away clean, be that with a hedge trimmer, hedge shears or secateurs. And the aroma of the foliage I find revolting, one that sticks to your clothes and hands after handling.



Buxus sempervirens - English Box

Due to its tight, dense growth, English Box is ideally suited for low boarder hedges or topiary. The density and size of the foliage allows you to prune this plant into any shape you like, and the slow growth rate means it will keep its shape for longer. But that's about it I'm afraid.

The growth rate is extremely slow, meaning it will take decades to form a hedge. It's also highly sensitive to soil moisture, if the plant dries out for second it will crack the sh.ts and die. I've also had them die for absolutely no reason at all. In both cases, it will make establishing or maintaining a hedge a painful and frustrating experience. English Box just doesn't like the Aussie climate at all and I struggle to understand why anyone grows it, both the wholesalers and the end user. And to most people, English Box emits an odor not unlike cat pi.s.

For those reasons, I would never recommend anyone buy Buxus, in fact I would actively discourage it in the nursery. There are far better alternatives that tolerate the Australian climate much better, not to mention grow and establish the desired effect much faster, think Euonymus Tom Thumb or Green Rocket.

This reminds me of a rather amusing moment serving a customer a few years ago. She was wanting to create two round topiaries for her entrance way, in turn I took her to the Buxus and Tom Thumb benches. She then quite loudly and proudly said, with a completely straight and serious face, that she liked BIG BALLS. Meanwhile, I was dying inside trying not to crack a joke or break down in laughter. Almost the same when a customer would ask for prostate plants rather than prostrate plants.................and for some reason it was always the ladies who struggled with that pronunciation.



Palms - Any of them!

Look, palms have their place and can look superb when used in tropical themed gardens. But where I live, they just don't work and are completely out of place. Northern Victoria is a very different climate to where palms typically thrive. While we certainly have the summer heat for them to grow, we also have frosty winters which will burn almost all varieties within seconds.

And yet, people want them here. It was always the same sort of customers, one that had just installed a pool and/or was wanting to create a "twopical" garden in a warm-temperate climate. Used to do my head in, almost always a middle-aged male or female of the white-trash-fancy kind. Sorry, but it's the truth. They were also the type who couldn't be told and ended up buying what they had their hearts set on, then come back 6-months later complaining that they had died or were looking terrible. Well...................

Of the countless palm varieties, only a select few would tolerate our winters. So, if those two or three varieties didn't appeal, then it was my fault for not telling them what they wanted to hear. Basically, you either planted a Cocos Palm and dealt with the mess they create, the ugly bare trunks and weed potential, or you planted Bangalo's knowing they would need special treatment come winter..........which most customers wouldn't or couldn't be bothered doing.



All Lavender -

I hate Lavender! Ok, so the flowers are pretty and manage to attract bees, but that's about it.

I hate Lavender fragrance. And because of the oiliness of the plant, it means any contact with it will it stick to your cloths, gloves and skin. Don't wear gloves and you'll end up with sticky fingers. They need constant pruning to promote fresh growth and new flowers. Neglect the pruning and you'll have a straggly looking bush. You also can't hack them back............they will 9 times out of 10 up and die from that treatment. So, while they look good in the first 12-months, they are relatively short lived and get more and more woody until you rip them out and start again. I've always said if you get 3 years out of Lavender, you've done well.

The above plays out in the nursery. They come into stock looking gorgeous, but if not sold promptly, they slowly degrade until discounted or thrown in the compost. Unlike some plant, you can't just cut them back, feed and regrow to saleable proposition.



Bougainvillea - Paper Flower

While lovely in flower, these plants are not ideal for my area due to their dislike of frost. I hate how rampant they are, which means you have to prune them back, which makes them less inclined to flower, which is the only drawcard of the plant. Then there are the vicious spines. This is the best treatment for a Bougainvillea........................





Anigozanthos - Kangaroo Paw

People love these, but unless you live in a dry environment with little humidity, they are more trouble than they are worth. These grass-like flowering natives can look stunning in the right location. Kangaroo Paws were strangely one of the first plants to wilt on a hot day in the nursery, but then they strongly dislike over watering in the garden.

The big killer for me is the incurable ink spot disease, which is fungal problem that contracted, there is no coming back. Cut them back to the ground to regrow fresh material, and it will come through with the black spotting.

Because a lot of the newer and more desirable varieties have a breeder's right on them, the price per plant is quite high. Considering the plant has a high chance of getting ink spot, you are basically wasting money.



Spathiphyllum - Peace Lily

Famous for their rich glossy green leaves and lovely crisp white blooms, Spaths are an attractive indoor plant.................sometimes.

These things are a pain in the ***! Don't water them enough and they wilt, water them too much and they wilt. Then the ends of the leaves turn black. Sure, they look good in the nursery, but they don't look like that for long. There are far better indoor plants than Peace Lily.



Dishonorable mentions......................

Hebe's - fast growing but quickly turn leggy.

Stachys byzantina Lambs Ear - scrappy, untidy plants that have a strange aroma.

[Citroënbender]

What a great read/rant/lesson! Thank you!

One note, come back to lavender in twenty years and see if the hate is still so strong. It might be just me, but my dislike was similar to yours by intensity - now it’s more “Hmm, not my favourite but it’s OK”.

[DFB FGXR6]

I find it interesting how humans learn and retain information better when its a subject of interest. That applies in horticulture as well.

In the nursery, I always hated selling native plants and trees because I just wasn't interested in them, and therefore wasn't as knowledgeable as I should have been. When it came to trees, I'd always be on the backfoot trying to identify or suggest natives, they just didn't interest me.

On the other hand, I always loved selling deciduous ornamental trees, mainly because they suited my style better and offered more variety to choose from. Quite often a customer insisted on an evergreen tree because they didn't want to clean up leaves. My response was always along the lines that deciduous trees shed leaves once a year, an evergreen will continually shed leaves all year long, do you want to clean up once a year or all year?

For me, I love the transformation deciduous trees provide through the seasons. I loved the soft spring regrowth, the lush summer shade, the stunning autumn colours and the added light they offer in winter. I also love the variety of foliage shapes, sizes and colours, native trees all look the same to me.

Here are my favorites........................

Acer palmatum - Japanese Maple

These are absolutely beautiful small to medium trees prized for their foliage shape and colourings. I also love the somewhat random structure of branches, in turn adding character to the garden. So, if you like a bolt straight and perfectly structured tree, look elsewhere.

With so many varieties to choose from, it's hard for me to nail down a single favorite Japanese Maple.

'Sango Kaku' has predominantly green foliage, turning yellow and orange in the autumn. As the tree enters dormancy, the stems turn bright pink, which can be a highlight of a bleak winter landscape. Sango Kaku are one of the taller growing verities, reaching about 6 meters at full maturity.



'Seiryu' offers finely cut lacey foliage that is predominantly line green for most of the year, then transforms into a stunning display of yellow, orange, red and purple tones as the tree prepares for winter. Grows to about 4m x 4m at maturity. I have this variety in my backyard, where it creates a lovely sheltered shady nook.



Atropurpureum (Atro) is a favorite for its superb dark red foliage all year round. In autumn, that colour intensifies as it heads toward dormancy. For me, this tree is at it's best in early spring, the fresh foliage is to die for. Atro only grows to about 3 meters, making it ideal for smaller gardens and large pots. It also appears to be more sun tolerant that other varieties.



PRO TIP - If you want to put a Japanese Maple in a sunny position, go for the varieties without finely cut foliage such as Seiryu or Red Pygmy. Sango Kaku, Atro and Seedling all tolerate hot sun better.

(Atro bottom left, Seiryu top right)



Lagerstroemia - Crepe Myrtle

These small trees are somewhat over-planted now, but they are ideally suited to new builds with increasingly smaller and smaller gardens. The main claim to fame is their crepe paper-like flowers that appear in mid-summer, available in several shades of pink, mauve, white and red. The Diamonds in The Dark varieties stand out with their burgundy foliage and are the only true-red flowering Crepe Myrtle's. In autumn, you are then rewarded with a brilliant display of yellow, orange and red as the tree prepares for winter. And to cap it all off, the smooth patterned truck is a feature in itself.

As a whole, these trees are highly tolerant of heat and dry conditions, although they can be quite slow growing if not given sufficient water in summer. You also need to keep on top of grey mildew during humid conditions. Like Japanese Maples, Crepe's are not going to be a perfectly structured tree, their appeal lies in the random arrangement of branches.

For me, my favorites are purple toned 'Zuni', which I have in my front yard, the bright pink 'Sioux', and the dark cerise 'Tuscarora'.

PRO TIP - Crepe's are best purchased in a pot, then can resent the bare-root process. Also, its best to pay more for one that has been trained into a tree, if this isn't done from early on, they end up becoming a multi-branched shrub, something many customers didn't understand.

L. 'Zuni'..............



Acer Autumn Blaze and October Glory - Canadian Maple

These were my go-to large shade tree. The brilliant red autumn display being the most obvious reason. What I also like is the almost perfect shape they grow into. Want that classic pyramidal shade tree appearance, well this is the tree for you. At maturity, these two varieties of Canadian Maple can reach up to 10 - 12 meters in height, but on heavier soils you can expect about 8 - 9 meters. Given sufficient summer moisture, they can be decently quick to establish.

Picking between the two is hard, they look almost identical in almost every way. On close inspection, Autumn Blaze has larger leaves and slightly brighter red Autumn tones, October Glory has a deeper red with smaller leaves. Toss a coin.

PRO TIP - Keep an eye out for strange sawdust type material on the trunk, this indicates a borer, which uncontrolled can severely impact the health of the tree.



Acer 'Pacific Sunset'

This is a newer variety of Maple that provides a point of difference to the heavily planted 'Autumn Blaze' and 'October Glory'. The foliage has more shape and character, almost like a Liquid Ambar but without the aggressiveness. Pacific Sunset will offer more yellow and orange tones in autumn instead of vivid red.

I've found Pacific Sunset to be faster growing than Autumn Blaze/October Glory, while also having excellent branch structure to create that classic tree shape. At maturity, they can reach 10 meters, expect less on heavy soil.

PRO TIP - Like all Maples, try not to prune in winter, you otherwise risk bleeding the tree out.



Magnolia × soulangeana - The Saucer Magnolia

This is a super old variety of deciduous Magnolia that you will find flowering their head off in late winter. Often seen in older established gardens, I vividly remember playing under one in my grandparents back yard. These trees are prized for their purple-pink-white flower goblets, which open out to a "saucer" as they age. I also love how they decorate the ground surrounding the tree, some would call that mess, I call it beautiful.

Growing 4 - 6 meters in height, they are known to be slow getting there. They can also be troubled by hot summer winds, so be sure to keep the water up to them. Not a tree for everyone as you need to have the right spot and keep them happy, but they are worth the effort and patience.

PRO TIP - A very old nurseryman once told me that these Magnolia's should be planted with plenty of rich compost, then heavily feed and watered during spring and summer to keep them productive.



Betula Pendula Alba - Silver Birch

These are a catch 22 tree. I absolutely love how these trees look, especially when planted as a grove. That crisp white bark is a standout, especially in winter. I also adore the dappled shade they create. And while they can grow tall, they are relatively slender, especially planted in groups.

However......................Birch really aren't naturally suited to Australian conditions. They like water and lots of it, in fact they tend to defoliate in hot windy conditions without sufficient soil moisture. When it came to customers, some would have great success, many would return to buy replacements. Not because of our fault, it's just how they are. I'd say if you want to grow Birch, soil prep is key, as is a good watering regimen.

Worth the effort in my opinion for the look they create, but not for everyone.

PRO TIP - Add plenty of compost when planting and mulch regularly for moisture retention.



The Sin Bin

Robinia - these are the spawn of satin! Not only do they have thorny trunks, but they are also rampant and invasive growers that will crack foundations and infiltrate pipes. Avoid.

Gleditsia - Messy. Otherwise, see above.

Cercis Forest Pansy - I loved these trees for the longest time, the large burgundy foliage and pretty lavender coloured spring flowers have high appeal. But over time, I noticed several specimens up and die for no reason. I also found them highly susceptible to scale attack. Which considering the cost of this particular variety, it makes them a gamble.................ask me how I know.

Pyrus Ornamental Pears - These trees are popular for the speed of growth and glossy green foliage, followed by a stunning yellow-orange-red-purple autumn display. And to an extent, I still like them. But.................the flowers stink, the root system prone to suckering and the leathery leaves take forever to break down.

Platanus Plane Tree - My local council has a fetish for these, they even continue to plant them despite most people hating them. The main culprit is the eye and respiratory irritation they cause, triggering discomfort to varying degrees depending on the person. The large leaves refuse to break down and need to be shredded to compost. Avoid.

[DFB FGXR6]

Hoses!

I’ve been using hoses every day since I was a kid, safe to say I know a thing or two about them. Using hoses for a living, you quickly know what works, and what DOESN’T! I’m also the sort of person where little things annoy me, you know, hoses that bind or kink, fittings that leak or don’t hold properly. So, with that, I know exactly what makes for a good hose user experience.

When buying a hose, you are not just shopping for a rubber hose, you are also buying the supporting fittings as well. So, you could have a decent hose, but the user experience could be let down by crappy fittings. And vice versa.



Hose Material –

NEVER EVER BUY A CHEAP HOSE! Done, end of post………………………………………

The vast majority of hoses on the market are complete junk! Made to hit a price point, they are completely useless and utterly frustrating to use. The thing is, these cheap hoses actually present well on the shelf, they feel ultra flexible and give the impression that they won’t kink. WRONG!

The thing with garden hoses, you need a balance of hardness and softness to the outer jacket to resist kinks and limit binding. Note how I say limit, a hose will always have some bind or kinking ability. The difference is being able to work with the hose as you move around, allowing the hose to unwind and unkink itself.

At the hardware store, you will mostly be shopping 12 or 13mm and 18 or 19mm hose sizes. Unless you need the extra flow out on larger properties, don’t waste money on the larger hoses. I was forced to use 19mm hoses at work because most of the staff were useless at watering, so more flow was used to compensate. In 80% of the watering we would do, I could water better and quicker with a 13mm hose and good technique compared to others who didn’t know what they were doing with managing hoses or per-plant dose rates. Trust me, size doesn’t always matter with hoses. Dragging hoses around all day in summer was a chore with 19mm hoses, they are bulky, heavy when full of water and hard manage and store. A 13mm hose is easier to work with and flows more than enough for most situations.





The only time when the larger hose came in handy was for soaking advanced trees.



At this point, I will admit that the ultimate in hose quality will be had via specialty hose suppliers. But who is going to buy a garden hose like that? Even for the obsessive like me, I’m not custom ordering a garden hose. So, this post will be focused on where most will buy this sort of thing, a hardware store.

https://hosefactory.com.au/collections/outdoor-garden

Fitting’s -

Quite often, the connectors fitted to the hoses on the shelf play a massive part in the user experience. The price and quality of these fittings vary widely. The cheap ones will only last a couple of seasons (if that), and expensive ones end up being half the price of the hose itself.

Plastic – The cheapest of these fittings are deplorable. They are made from hard plastic that is highly likely to shatter if dropped, and if that doesn’t happen, they will turn brittle in the sun. Thing is, I always prefer plastic fittings, but they have to be the right fittings. More on this shortly.

Some notes on what is out there -

- The Hose-link stuff is good, I used them looong before they became a household name. But you kinda have to commit to the system fully. And their hoses are junk.

- Nylex stuff is also good, although not the best.

- The best fittings I have found to be from Gardena. Yes, these are plastic fittings, but they are German manufactured and come with a 5-year warranty. The plastic isn’t brittle or ultra-thin and has been UV stabilized for Australia, meaning you will get a good run out of them. The old-style Gardena connectors remained unchanged for decades. So, when they redesigned the outer section, I was a little apprehensive. I need not have worried; the new ones are just as if not better due to the non-slip rubber sections.

Old -



New -







I’ve found these to be the most reliable connections, holding onto the hose properly and provide a more secure connection to the attachment. Considerably more expensive, but then you won’t be replacing them as often.

Just keep them away from your dog.....................





Some of what to avoid -

- The Pope stuff used to be good, but its only gotten cheaper and cheaper as Bunning’s had their way.

- Holeman is also a price point brand, no matter what level of their stuff you get. The same applies to all of the other Bunning’s house brand stuff, cheap and nasty junk.

- I also do not like press-fitted hose connectors. Once they start leaking or come lose, there isn’t much you can do but cut the end off and put a normal one on. Most of the Pope hoses use this style.

- Anything with a stop fitting. These fittings have a stop valve integrated into the connection, don’t waste your money on them. I always found them a nuisance when fitted to the outlet side, so I’d always connect that end to the tap as the inlet……………..which completely defeats the purpose. These stop fittings are usually more expensive than the standard items, but they offer no benefit in my opinion.



Brass & Stainless Steel – This will sound counterintuitive as we are typically conditioned to think plastic means poor quality. But I flat out don’t like brass fittings. They are heavy, clunky and overpriced. And that’s when new, they only get worse with age.

For me, I really dislike the movement of the outer sheath of the connector, they either won’t engage or disengage properly as they get older. And as that happens, you won’t be inclined to replace them because of how much they cost initially. I’ve also found they don’t hold the hose properly, so they come lose or leak, which means you end up repairing more often. For that reason, I don’t recommend buying these fittings at any price point, or spend the extra to buy a hose with them already fitted.

They certainly look pretty when new.......................



The Choices-

Rather than review every single hose on the shelf at Bunnings, I’m just going to highlight brands on offer, then cut to the chase and tell you which to buy.

Nylex – There was a time when they made some great stuff, I even have one of their older blue hoses………………..but they stopped making them. The last Nylex I bought just wasn’t what I was expecting from the brand and looking at what’s available at Bunnings right now, none of them I would buy.

Pope – Again, a brand that used to be good but went down the cost-control path and everything went to sh.t. I do not like their pressed fittings that they use across the majority of the range. The only ones I’d consider would be the Pinnacle hoses, but again, the press fittings let the side down. I suppose you could buy the hose, cut the fittings off and install the Gardena items. But who is going to spend $85 - $115 on a hose, then drop another $20 on fittings?

Aqua Systems - Avoid, total junk.

Holeman – Avoid, low quality.



DFB’s CHOICE

The best garden hoses available today, be that from Bunning’s or any other retailer, is the Gardena range. And you only have to look at the starting price to get the gist of why this is so. With the cheapest 13mm x 18m item sitting at $39.95, you are pretty safe buying any of the Gardena offerings. But why?



Take a look at the specs. Where the other hoses mentioned here are 12mm, the Gardena’s are 13mm. The same applies to the larger size, 19mm for Gardena and 18mm for the rest. This means the Gardena, or even other brand fittings, will fit the hose more securely. You also get the gold-standard Gardena plastic fittings. Some models come with brass fittings, but I wouldn’t bother.

https://www.bunnings.com.au/products...ndname=Gardena





Gardena offer three grades –

Flex – Kink resistance value of 8, available in 15m and 30m length.

High Flex – Kink resistance value of 9, available in 15m and 30m lengths, as well as 18mm x 20m.

Super Flex – Kink resistance of 10, available only in 15m length with brass fittings. Mitre10 also offer the Super Flex with plastic fittings in 15m and 30m lengths……….for more money, go figure.

From experience, the High Flex is the one to go for in terms of price and performance.

https://www.bunnings.com.au/gardena-...-hose_p3120801
https://www.bunnings.com.au/gardena-...-hose_p3120802



What About Wall Mounted Reels –

Every single one of these I have used has been totally annoying. There is a reason why I don’t have a retractable reel on my pressure washer! I’ve used a variety of brands, including the HEAVILY marketed Hose-Link ones, they are all junk and more hassle than they are worth. I know people like them for neatness, but they never work properly and actually restrict water flow. To me, they are a waste of money, I’d much rather put that extra money into the hose itself.



Hose Storage –

- Ideally, you want to store any hose out of direct sunlight to prevent UV damage over time. However, this isn’t always practical, and with a quality UV treated hose, not always needed.

- In winter, if you get frosts like I do, try to bring the hose into a covered area such as a shed, garage or under an evergreen tree. Frequent freezing and thawing will quickly reduce the life of your hose.

- I was always told to lay hoses out in straight lines to avoid training it into a coil. But………………I like my hoses rolled up on the ground or on a hose wall hanger.

- Portable hand crank hose reels are preferable to retractable, but I find them a pain to use. You also introduce more leak points and need a small whip hose in addition to the main hose. I’d only use one if you need to carry the hose around a lot (tradies), or bring it in to prevent theft.



Alternative Hoses -

There have been various attempts at re-inventing the wheel when it comes to hoses. Think those springy coil hoses, recycled rubber hose, expandable hoses, even metal hoses. None of them are any good.



Hose Management -

It never ceased to amaze me how some people never learn how to manage a hose..............despite it being such a frequent daily task. I couldn't tally the number of times I would observe someone attempting to un-kink a hose or end up with it tied up in nots, or a hose not put away neatly because, well, too hard.

All of this preventable by simply walking the hose out to its longest point, then working back from that point. When it came time to pack up, just walk it out again, then walk it back to its resting place. When you do this, you don't have to contend with binding, kinks or knocking things over while using it. Then, it also helps when rolling the hose up. Then, the next person doesn't have to content with your laziness.

As I said, some people don't learn.




Final Thoughts –

You could be forgiven for thinking that this is just an advertisement for Gardena. But trust me, I’ve arrived at the above choices after trying majority of what’s on the market, then being disappointed by most of it. I just keep coming back to Gardena for the quality and user experience.

And one last thing. Is it just me who loves the smell of a new hose?

[FTE217]

Oh mate timing on hose reels.
My yard I need 4 hose's - 2 x 30m 2 x 20m, always get more than I need but know what I mean for a 1300sqm block.
Used mostly Nylex I agree - forget Pope crap, as you know from a previous product discussion I go elsewhere when I can re Bunnings depending the need.
Therefore after all my years I thought enough I wanted to finally go a hose reel.
We have been frequenting a large Flower Power - sure similar to the Bunn but I feel it has better quality product in alot of nursery needs.
Apart from my wife going to town each time on plants be it natives and general plus herbs etc I notice alot of their own branded tools are pretty sturdy and obviously better best options.
Their shovels are damn good, also their racks.
Therefore I sussed out their hose's they carry Supergrow.
I asked them alot of questions - can I use other brands fittings if needed, what about replacement hoses are you sticking with the brand.....
The hose looks very similar to nylex highflex kink resistance.
So a took the leap on a 30M reel one.
I'm impressed to date - the nozzle has that adjustment gun - shower, jet etc....
Only installed it few weeks back but so far so good ! Hope it doesn't let me regret it.
I told them I'll be back if it lets me down for the wife is a member so the purchase's are in the system as usual today.
https://www.flowerpower.com.au/super...oqRQQAMxwRYxn2

[roKWiz]

Most of the hose fittings on our 1 acre property are Australian made by Neta., Sharkbite and WobbleTee.

https://netagarden.com.au/faq/

I trenched and installed all our underground water piping using Sharkbite fittings with food grade PEX hoses.

https://www.sharkbite.com.au/article...t%20Australia.

Sharkbite is very much like heavy vehicle air fitting using push and lock technology with no chance of leaks.

I had a 100mtr roll of 12mm drinking grade RV/Marine plumbing line to use for my garden hoses.
The stuff has lasted well considering water can freeze in the hoses in winter and bake in summer.
The sprinklers we use including 2 set up permanently on the cabin roof are Wobble T's.

https://www.wobble-tee.com.au/produc...tee-sprinkler/

So far we have had no issues with the gear.
Something I would like to set up maybe next Spring for the next hot weather will be a verandah misting system similar to what they use for outdoor dining areas in cafes.

[FTE217]

Wobble t looks good roK.
Normal nylex etc fittings fit ?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[roKWiz]

Originally Posted by FTE217

Wobble t looks good roK.
Normal nylex etc fittings fit ?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yeah, any garden hose fittings.

[DFB FGXR6]

Went mulch shopping today with my best client. You will often see their property in my garden pics, its a heritage listed corner block property that has a very large cottage style garden. Mulching is usually done via straw, which suits they style of the house and garden.









Compressed bales of sugarcane don't go very far in this garden! Although I do love the smell and what it does to the soil as the material breaks down. And while bales of straw are available at multiple retail outlets in town, notably the local Mitre10 which is run in conjunction with a rural store..............RokWiz will know who I'm talking about.

Thing is, when you live in a rural area, it's not what you know, its who you know. My client has been buying mulch-grade lucerne straw from the same old farmer for quite a while now. Not only is it superb for the garden, it also doesn't sprout weeds. Smells distinctively nice as well. I say "mulch-grade" in that these are older bales that have lost that cream colour and taken on a grey appearance. For mulching, this matters little.

Price wise, I went and did a little online comparison. Basic straw bales are around $14 each, with prices working up to $26 bale for lucerne. At this particular grower, rye grass hay is $12 a bale, working up to $18 a bale for premium lucerne. For garden mulch lucerne, that comes in at $10 a bale.

https://www.gaffys.com.au/product-page/garden-mulch

Typically, my clients would go out with the trailer, but with it full of garden waste, I offered up my ute. It was also a nice outing for my client who is progressively going blind and recovering from a severe back injury.

Can your dual cab toy do this?



I now know that a single cab chassis Ranger will hold 10 bales of hay! Their special loader grabs onto 10 bales at a time, then drops them into the tray in one go.

Upon return, the bales were unloaded and I wasted no time in getting it spread where required.

[Captain Stubing]

Spotto the Flow Hive in the garden, good for the plants and the bees!

[DFB FGXR6]

Originally Posted by Captain Stubing

Spotto the Flow Hive in the garden, good for the plants and the bees!

They had three of them at one point but are down to one now.



I've been on site for two swarms, both detected by me. Fascinating to watch.









For the most part, the bees leave you alone. I could work around the hives without them bothering me, even when using power equipment. Although, on one occasion, the below hive decided to attack me while I was mowing. I got swarmed and stung multiple times. Luckily, the clients were there when it happened and took me inside out of harms way. One of them had to suit up and go shut down and retrieve the mower.