Penrith oil

[AlCan]

Originally Posted by Mondaveo

Here's a YouTube video of someone who wired in a Mondeo regen indicator off the relay to the fifth glow plug:https://youtu.be/QrikEUrIVSMThere were a couple of comments that it seemed a bit sketchy wiring off the vaporiser relay, since it carries a lot of current ("...there may more vaporization than expected, if there's a short in the led wiring"). Thus I was hoping that the demister might be option that's safer (but not so sure on that since it probably also involves a lot of current).

Good point - the Demister circuit is probably as much current as the Regen glow plug. It's a fairly crude method to solder the wire onto the high current relay output terminal, and I agree with those who warn against it.

This video discusses the regen system in more detail, and answers the question I was wondering last night - where does the diesel for the regen injector come from? The video answers that and more.

https://youtu.be/AH_05WMQ4qg?t=147

It also illuminates a far better source for the "Regen LED" supply voltage. According to the video, the Fuel Injector Pump starts a few seconds AFTER the Injector Glow Plug is switched on. I'm picking the other wire coming off the injector (at the side branch) is actually to a Temp Sensor, and the Regen System waits for the Glow Plug to heat up before it starts the Fuel Pump.

If that's case and the glow plug has died, then the Pump probably won't be turned on at all. I would say the pump power supply is the far better (and safer) place to connect the LED as it will be much lower current and fused accordingly, and will likely also indicate that the glow plug is operational.

On the other hand, it won't show an "Attempted Regen" - but which is better - a False "Regen in Progress" light, or No Light at all because the regen isn't actually happening?

Another unknown at this stage is whether the pump gets turned On and Off repeatedly throughout the process. It may do, based on the fuel temperature sensor - which might result in an annoying light flashing or flickering on and off while it's happening - or that may be good, confirming that it's working, if the light is not overly bright. Night time is another issue...

It may possibly also use that sensor to detect lack of fuel flow to the injector (say, if it's blocked) as it will get hot but won't cool down again as the fuel is fed in. Maybe, two or three birds with one stone.


Actually, sounds like a pretty clever simple system. Will investigate in due course and let you know.

[NZ XR6]

I understand the MB has a simpler regen system and injests additional fuel to raise the DPF temperature. I can usually tell when one is happening by the change in engine sound on a closed throttle, and may not notice it when on the motorway listening to music.

The interval between regens can be as high as 600-700 km depending on the type of driving. Using a good C3 oil seemed to increase it, but Ive never kept a record of regen intervals.

No problems apart from the pressure transducer hoses failing. The ECU did set the check engine light, but kept doing regens, probably at a set time or distance interval.

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[AlCan]

Originally Posted by NZ XR6

The interval between regens can be as high as 600-700 km depending on the type of driving. Using a good C3 oil seemed to increase it, but Ive never kept a record of regen intervals.

Sounds like you've got a good one!



On the Regen Light:

In the TDCi MC, the relevant fuses are:

F6 20Amps Vaporiser glow plug
F9 5 Amps Vaporiser fuel pump

These fuses are both 'live' (12V) from one of the main Unlock or Door Open activated supplies (not Engine Running or similar), so the LED tap would have to be off one side of the pump supply. That's all I know so far.

[NZ XR6]

Originally Posted by Mondaveo

There were a couple of comments that it seemed a bit sketchy wiring off the vaporiser relay, since it carries a lot of current ("...there may more vaporization than expected, if there's a short in the led wiring"). Thus I was hoping that the demister might be option that's safer (but not so sure on that since it probably also involves a lot of current).

Better solution is to tap into the wire that switches the relay. Given the low current draw of an LED lamp, it shouldn't cause any issues.



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