Strange locks...

InfernoSR · 18-01-2009, 03:34 PM

As most would know, my car is a rather large mix and match of cars...

Now... i am trying to fix my central locking... i started to remove my drives front door lock and have found a patch lead on it... i read somewhere that these are for the use of BA units... the patch lead has a Ford Genuine Parts label on it... how true is that info?

Could it still be the cause of my central locking issues (all motorise when opening doors, even when not locked)... i've had to disconnect my passenger side unit anyway, due to it simply not locking at all...

I know its been asked many times in the past... but i'm sure mine is a strangish one...

InfernoSR · 18-01-2009, 03:52 PM

Ok... after a little more fiddling... i find no differences between locks... both make the same issue...

What happens is, you open a door, and all actuators make a motorised noise 3 times... no idea what the cause is... the remote locking doesnt work either for that reason... although i now have to replace the battery and reprogramme it... i was reluctant until i had the other issues sorted... do you have to reprogramme the hardware too??

private9 · 18-01-2009, 04:01 PM

It sounds like it's got a BA actuator in place of the AU one. The BA ones are less prone to breakage, but require the patch loom you have described.

The issue to me sounds like a busted actuator in one of the doors. They tend to break the plastic cog in them.

InfernoSR · 18-01-2009, 04:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by private9

It sounds like it's got a BA actuator in place of the AU one. The BA ones are less prone to breakage, but require the patch loom you have described.

The issue to me sounds like a busted actuator in one of the doors. They tend to break the plastic cog in them.

Where, but which one? if the d/f one replaced already, the p/f one is disconnected, does that leave the rear door ones? which is the best way to figure it out? just disconnect them all, and plug one at a time back in?

:

InfernoSR · 18-01-2009, 04:27 PM

Well thats the last bloody straw!!!!!! i now have NO secure car!!!!!!

In an attempt to figurre out the crap in my car... i attempted to install the push button steel rod thing on the drivers door... to do so, i undid the retaining bolts, lightly pulled back the unit... clipped in the rod... pushed back the unit... and SNAP!!! it bloody well broke that bloody piece of bloody plastic that locked my doors!!! the ONLY thing that locked my doors!!! no i bloody well have nothing to lock them! no remote, no door lock on handle and no bloody individual buttons!!! p155ed off is an understatement right now!

InfernoSR · 18-01-2009, 04:48 PM

ok... i've calmed down now...

By the looks of it, i need to replace that part somehow... any suggestions? do i have to get an entire new door handle? can something else fit?

private9 · 18-01-2009, 04:58 PM

Sounds like fun!

From what you've described, I think you may need a new handle.

Maybe pop a photo up so it's clear which bit is now broken.

InfernoSR · 18-01-2009, 05:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by private9

Sounds like fun!

From what you've described, I think you may need a new handle.

Maybe pop a photo up so it's clear which bit is now broken.

Well here is 1 part:

and the other...

InfernoSR · 20-01-2009, 07:11 PM

Ok... plastic bit is fixed for the time being :P

Ok... back to my issues... i bought 3 out of 4 actuators from a series 2... test fitted them onto the loom... same issues... buggered if i know what i'm meant to be doing here...

fourl6 · 20-01-2009, 08:48 PM

my back passenger door hadn't been locking for i have no idea how long... when i took the door handle out it worked... what was happening was if the car was locked you could open the door but if you locked it and tried to open it before the lights finished flashing the car would beep etc... so maybe try removing all 4 inner door handles and seewhat happens... looks like the wire think in them has to be in exactly the right position for the lock to work properly... i just put the door handle back it and its worked ever since... im a bit paranoid now tho...

Cheers Cam

bodes-sh · 20-01-2009, 09:17 PM

yours is an au1 correct? i had the same problems with mine when i got a ba one to put in the front. apparently au1's have sensors in both front locks, so you need one from an au1. all i ended up doing was pulling the actual motor apart and swapping the broken internals out. no more problems. i had the same issues as you, doors wouldn't lock with remote, locks would cycle when opening all doors. so, if you still have your original ones, just pull them apart and swap the insides and you will be fine

InfernoSR · 21-01-2009, 07:13 AM

thanks bodes... that makes sense... as the local Ford dealer made mention about the S1's having the sensor in both doors... and that being the key issue... so my next question is, can i convert the controller to AU2/3 and away it works with a BA actuatore in the drivers front, AU2 actuator in the passenger front and AU1 actuators in the rear??

InfernoSR · 21-01-2009, 05:37 PM

ok... more questions...

Can i upgrade my central locking system to Series 2/3 spec? Will changing the BEM and ECU from a series 1 to 2/3 be pretty straight forward or simply unachievable without copious money being thrown at it?

greenguzzler · 22-01-2009, 12:42 PM

Hey mate. I had a door lock on the front passenger side not locking over the weekend but all the other doors locked fine. I thought it might be an actuator so i then took it to the local Ford dealer. Turns out i was correct and a new actuator was fitted but it now does a few whirring sounds when you open any door. This is because the voltage on the BEM must be changed due to a new actuator being fitted so it will sync in with the others. I hope this helps. I am getting it fixed on Wednesday next week but at least the car locks. That plastic piece you broke you may be able to get from a wreckers for a couple of bucks.