The how to thread!!

[Stav]

I have given this some thought and people keep asking the same questions..I am not sure how much can be crammed in here but would love to see people with a helpful attitude. I am not sure how much can be covered but here goes nothing..

I need some advice on removing the au 1 hub assembly and bearings. So far I had removed the wheel, brakes and disc.From there I removed the cap. This is where things got confusing and can be a sticky spot for others..The retaining nut was not a single nut but 4 on top of each other. These are protected by a metal cover to stop them from coming loose.I literally broke this outer casing to get to the retaining nuts.It ended up being a 32 mm socket which removed these.I removed the assembly and installed the new one. The problem from there was that the 4 nuts did not line up perfectly when I tightened them. I ended up tightening the crap out of them with my body wieght. I took the car for a drive and voila..scraping noise still there and when I turn corners. What have I done incorrectly?
Does any one know the right way to do this? Lets answer this and then if anyone else has a how to question or how to do the type away.

[AU2PWR]

this would be a great thing for the AUBit ..

Move all the HowTo Stickies into a Seperate bit so i dont have to scroll halfway down the page to read the posts

[BLACKAUXR8]

I have done this on mine but mine just went back together how you said and it worked. I had trouble getting the locking nut of but putting on it all just fell into place i was suprised at how easy it was. I guess i was just lucky.

[Mechan1k]

To me it sounds like the hub assembly is different for AUII and III.
All I needed to do was remove the 35mm centre nut and the entire hub just came straight off.

[Stav]

Originally Posted by Mechan1k

To me it sounds like the hub assembly is different for AUII and III.
All I needed to do was remove the 35mm centre nut and the entire hub just came straight off.

Was it one bolt Simon? If so I may go to ford and get this bolt.Mine is the au1. I will for everyones benefit take pics of exactly how it is done .Also I will categorise the repair an put it under a heading along with other how to's.

[Mechan1k]

Have at look at the Technical Documents page link in the blue header at (inbetween Gallery and Timeslips) .... in there near the top of the listing is a How-To from Ronwest with a lot of pics.

It shows what his hub looks like ... and what the main bolt looks like as well.
Good clear pics and concise information in there.

actually ... here's the link:
http://www.fordforums.com.au/vbporta...article&id=319

[Stav]

That link isnt working for me? Neither does it when I click it at the top.?

[Mechan1k]

Strange that one ... maybe the thread is else where.

Here's a pic of the old hub with the centre nut in place

[Stav]

Well here it goes...I have taken a pictures on how to remove it and reinstall.Firstly ,remove the wheel and remove the brake calipers.The bolts are 13mm and there are 2.Then prize the brakes off.The disc will go very loose so keep a finger on it so it doesnt fall. Then remove the centre dust cover with a screwdriver.This will expose the wheel bearing nuts which are enclosed in a metal sheet retainer.DO NOT TRY TO OPEN IT!!!This is the incorrect way and what I did yesterday.The nut assembly in au1 to au3 is the same .Inside it does have 4 nuts.Please do not open it!!!. Instead I used a 36mm hex inpact socket around the whole lot to remove it as is.I greased the hub up like we used to but I dont think it is necessary as it is sealed.The bolt must be retightened.I tughtened mine according to Max ellery handbokk which I do believe is wrong .It quotes 450nm!! I did mine to 50 foot lbs. I am unsure of the torque settings so maybe someone can shed some light on this.If so p[lease quote foot pounds and nm.

Despite my proffessional job I still had terrible grinding.I changed my disc and it got worse.I reinstalled the old disk and found less noise.I searched for where the heck the scraping sound was from and voila!! My lower drivers ball joint is holding by a bees finger.It scrapes just on the inside of the disc by a mm or 2!!

In the third photo across you can see my damaged nut and a new one from ford much like mechanik's

[Stav]

I realised I forgot something..once the nut is undone the hub assembly comes straight out if you pull it out gently.

[FS5]

crikey,my front right's been making a real racket lately.i was planing on changing both next weekend but now .......
stav is yours just one of those stubborn ones?
going buy the pics that hub asembly looks like a jig saw puzzle????

[Stav]

The pics didnt come out in order mate.I just didnt have the knowledge but learnt real quick.Get a 36 socket mate ..its easy!! I treated the AU like I did the eb I had.This is why I had a few setbacks.Just that this setup is all one piece as far as the washer,nut and retainer goes. It takes 30 minutes to do..

[wodahs]

i wonder why 4 locking nuts ?

[Stav]

Originally Posted by wodahs

i wonder why 4 locking nuts ?

They are actually concave and seem to have a tensioning action on the next nut to lock it in.

[Stav]

Replacing hub bearing assembly

1/ Remove wheel
2/ Remove brake calipers held by 2 13 mm retaining bolts.
3/ Remove disc
4/ Remove hub abs plastic cover with a flat blade screwdriver.
5/ Insert a 36 mm hex socket and remove the main nut which hold bearing assembly to stub .
6/ Old bearing hub assembly literally slides out
7/ Slide new one on.
8/ Reinstall the main assembly nut with the 36 mm hex socket.Tighten to specs( 45 nm?)
9/ Reinstall disc,brake cliper and hub plastic bearing cover.
10 / Install wheel.
11/ Drive the car.

Replace front springs

http://www.fordforums.com.au/showpos...1&postcount=27

[Mechan1k]

Also to add ... prior to installing the new hub ... clean up the spindle that the hub slides over with emery paper to remove any rust ... and I put loctite on the thread when re-installing the centre nut as well.

I had issues getting the damn hub cover back on though ... it only wanted to sit perfectly in one way I found (unless I damaged it removing the bugger).

[The Mighty Red]

the Hub Axle retaining nut is 305nm according to my Gregorys AU repair manual

[accurate1]

Stav, you need to re torque the axle nut to around 225ft/lb or 300nm, the way you have now is dangerous and not preloading the bearings properly.

[LPGUTE]

sorry to dig up old tread but will 260nm bit close enough? it is hard to fine a torque wrench with anything more then 200nm