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OzECruisers General Discussions E/N/D vehicles General Discussion ONLY. NO TECH THREADS

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Old 23-06-2005, 12:57 PM   #1
InitialD
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Red face Thermos

Recently I fitted Thermos to my EA (thanks Neb ;) )

I tapped the ignition wire for the thermos off the Carbon Canister Purge Switch as we did on John_xr6's ED.

The only wierd thing is the Fans stay on for 8seconds after the car is turned off? And the inline fuse for the Amp Keeps blowing when I turn the car off when the thermos stay on? This is the 2nd fuse ive blown (60amp fuse if anyone wants to know)


Thanks Guys
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Old 23-06-2005, 02:48 PM   #2
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hmm I have no idea what is causing that.

But I have Au's in mine and when ever they turn on the battery warning light comes on. I got a new alternator about 3 months ago so it cant be that.

Car still runs exactly the same but the light is annoying as hell.
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Old 23-06-2005, 02:50 PM   #3
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Where do you have the feed wire for the thermos coming from, I run mine direct on the back of the alternator.
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Old 23-06-2005, 02:56 PM   #4
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plyoal sounds like youve got the power for the thermos straight from where the voltsensor joins onto the battery...
or your battery is on its way out? lol

and initial d run the positive straight off the battery and should fix your problems.
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Old 23-06-2005, 02:59 PM   #5
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Bozza if you ran all from the battery they do not turn off till the car gets cool, and thats no good.
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Old 23-06-2005, 03:00 PM   #6
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y not?
i ran my ea like that for a year
was mad =)

tell *s you got a turbotimer >=)
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Old 23-06-2005, 03:02 PM   #7
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good onya, dont wire them that way people please.
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Old 23-06-2005, 03:03 PM   #8
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Sounds like both of you are getting the power for your fans from the wrong place.

I would suggest that the fan power should come directly from the battery via a relay.
The thermos I fitted to the ZC draw heaps of current - I can't remember if it is 10 amps for the pair or 10 amps each - either way, relay required to save the switches...

I am currently powering the fan relay through an inline fuse but the heat generated at the fuse to holder connection is so bad that it melts the solder holding the fuse strip into the 3AG tube - not blowing the fuse, just melting the solder to create an open circuit.
I am planning to change the fuse for either a fusible link or a thermal cutout breaker thingy.

The thermo switch should activate the relay to run the fans.
The thermo switch should be powered from a circuit that becomes live when the ignition is turned on.

A close examination of the wiring diagrams for your cars may well reveal why the problems are occuring....

The purge relay may be on a timer after ignition is switched off causing that 8 second delay...
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Old 23-06-2005, 03:09 PM   #9
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I have setup my car, another car, and helped/advised/supervised a 3rd and they all still work 100% without issue, mpfi cars.

purge solenoid (ign on side) goes to thermo switch, thermo switch goes to relays, relays have power source direct from back of alternator spliced in, all fused, 30amp fuses and relays.

never had an issues or problems.
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Old 23-06-2005, 03:20 PM   #10
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mick for the ignition wire i just used the same ignition wire the head unit uses... maybe try that one, or it might of been the cigarette lighter i cant remember... well as soon as i turn the car off it turns off... if i turn the engine off but leave the car in ignition the fans still work. which was handy when my water pump belt snapped and my car almost overheated.. i could turn the engine off and the fans kept going to cool it down
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Old 23-06-2005, 06:36 PM   #11
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Well Its blown ANOTHER fuse tonight... 3 so far :(

I have pulled into the driveway, popped the bonnet, and stared at the fuse as the car is running, soon as the car shuts off, the Fuse blows

Is it possible that the thermos are causing the current to blow the fuse when the car is shutting off?
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Old 23-06-2005, 07:02 PM   #12
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the thermos wouldnt draw 60A long enough to blow an amp fuse. you have something else going on there.

if youre using a CFI ECU relay, the ignition lines around the engine bay (purge canister, isc, etc) stay active long enough for the CFI's ISC DCM to revert to full open position, ie: open enough so it can start next time. my EA used to do this, i thought it was cool.
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Old 23-06-2005, 09:47 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by galapogos01
the thermos wouldnt draw 60A long enough to blow an amp fuse. you have something else going on there.

if youre using a CFI ECU relay, the ignition lines around the engine bay (purge canister, isc, etc) stay active long enough for the CFI's ISC DCM to revert to full open position, ie: open enough so it can start next time. my EA used to do this, i thought it was cool.
thats it ;) It says on and it s me!

Ive replaced the replay with a MPFI one but made no difference :P
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Old 23-06-2005, 10:33 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ZC-Cruiser
I am currently powering the fan relay through an inline fuse but the heat generated at the fuse to holder connection is so bad that it melts the solder holding the fuse strip into the 3AG tube - not blowing the fuse, just melting the solder to create an open circuit.
I am planning to change the fuse for either a fusible link or a thermal cutout breaker thingy.
That is EXACTLY what happened to 2 of my fuses..
Has been fine for the last 2 months though..
Good to see my thermos aren't the only strange ones..
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Old 23-06-2005, 10:54 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JADED6
That is EXACTLY what happened to 2 of my fuses..
Has been fine for the last 2 months though..
Good to see my thermos aren't the only strange ones..
It's caused by a high resistance joint in the fuse/holder assembly.

HR joints in conjunction high amperage loads create heat at the HR joint.
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Old 23-06-2005, 11:37 PM   #16
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Does the choice of slow or fast blow fuses make a difference?
Probably not in my case as the fuse isn't blowing..
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Old 24-06-2005, 09:01 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JADED6
Does the choice of slow or fast blow fuses make a difference?
Probably not in my case as the fuse isn't blowing..
None whatsoever.
Try touching the fuse holder after the fans have been running for a while - you'll be surprised how hot it gets - hot enough to melt solder...

Replacing the inline fuse with a fusible link will fix the problem.
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Old 24-06-2005, 10:28 AM   #18
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can i ask what is wrong with letting them run it will just keep cooling the water how is that such a bad thing
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Old 24-06-2005, 10:35 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TWiZTiD EA
can i ask what is wrong with letting them run it will just keep cooling the water how is that such a bad thing
Well pending how hot, and how long to cool down, means you could end up with a dead battery, not the best situation to be in.
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Old 24-06-2005, 10:58 AM   #20
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yeah they suck a fair bit of battery power wouldn't really want them on all the time theres no need. mine aren't on that much.. mainly just when stopping at traffic lights or heavy traffic
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Old 24-06-2005, 10:04 PM   #21
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i had mine like this for 9 months with out a issue but i good battery
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Old 24-06-2005, 11:15 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TWiZTiD EA
i had mine like this for 9 months with out a issue but i good battery
Your a good battery? LMAO :P j/k
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Old 26-06-2005, 06:18 PM   #23
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yeah mine wer running like that for a year and no probs =) all good.
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Old 26-06-2005, 07:49 PM   #24
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it would be a problem if your temp switches were not right at the radiator.
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