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Old 01-02-2006, 10:55 PM   #1
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Talking Electrical Knowledge For Offer For Custom Projects !

Thought I would just mention that the least i could do for all the help eveyone has given me so far , is offer my services for advice for any projects anyone has in mind for electrical add ons or modifications > I have a had many years of electrical experience and there is a more than likelly chance ill be able to help you work out all the electrical side of the project you wish to do . Im not saying i am an electrical God - but i do have a very broad knowledge and understanding of electronics ( also worked as a pcb assembler for a few years too , know all my parts , tolerances , ohms law all which ways - so if anyone needs some electrical help , just yell .. :voldar02:

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Old 02-02-2006, 03:39 PM   #2
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I will keep that in mind thanks. Have got some plans so I may yell in the near future.
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Old 02-02-2006, 04:08 PM   #3
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cool- thanks mate

how do you hook up a variable-rpm shiftlight

I want to use an LED in one of the blank warning light pods in the dash as the light

thanks mate.
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Old 02-02-2006, 05:43 PM   #4
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chief , np mate ....

jimt3te50 ...... are u wanting to setup like a light that flashes when u hit redline or a user-set rpm ? , if this is what u are after thats getting a bit technical as the rpm readings are controled and read by the ecu, thus this would invole 'breaking a line' of some sort etc from the ecu to the tacho to be even able to read the tacho reading... Although something like that is hard it aint impossible , if thats what u wanna do let me know , otherwise descibe what u plan to do in a bit better detail ;) - if the above is the case - i think i could come up with something given a bit of time , im actually looking at making a pcb that i can plug the ecu into then that pcb plugs into the parallel port of my pc , the ecu is basically a eprom , i have free sortware downloaded off the internet for editing ANY chip/eprom - will be handy for removing rev limiter from the ecu etc etc , allthough its all in like a dos format /un-ford related software and not even meant for any perticular ICU ( np for me ) unlike what the garages have ( they have propper software from ford etc for that exact chip that is more user friendlly software for the adverage mechanic ! - eg. Let me know anyways if the above is what u are planning ;)
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Old 02-02-2006, 05:49 PM   #5
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oh - to add what i said above - there prolly is a easier way around it but i am actaully pretty new to the electronics of the AU, but grasping it fast with np - so for that above project i mentioned dont think thats the ONLY way to do it , im just going from an electricins point of view knowing what i know so far about the ecu and how it effects the tacho in the AU - but for all i know i might found out tomorrow there is just a plug in the fusebox where u can plug a variable rpm tacho with options into ..lol .. but if that is what u want let me know and ill seriouslly look into it for u ;)
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Old 02-02-2006, 05:55 PM   #6
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Ok champ, appreciate the offer, how do i convert a normal 240v electrical household product to run of the car lets just say a coffee maker and what would be the best way to wire it up ( lets say the coffee maker will sit in the engine bay. BA xr8

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Old 02-02-2006, 06:17 PM   #7
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DOC , it is actually cheaper and less fuss to buy a "12v DC to 240 AC" adapter than buying the parts to make it , honestlly !, i think they are around $30 , u can get them from places like dick smith electronis or jaycar. - also alot safer - the parts needed to make this component are very dangerous high voltage capacitors , is something u better off buying already sealed , besides that - if u made a mistake while making it u could fry the ecu with 240v or more !!!!!!!!!!!! , they are cheap to buy ;) - they are here in melbourne anyways .. gl
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Old 02-02-2006, 06:23 PM   #8
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oh..lol..thats alot of volts too , not something u would want to be running without the engine running otherwise u will kill the battery in a matter of no time , and i mean real quick ! eg. 240v appliances can draw upto 15 amps too ! - depending on the 240v applience being used , and yes i know the 240v rating from the wall has higher ratings in all aspects than a battery , but thats what those deadly capacitors do i was on about u dont wanna be toutching , they store charge - big volts and amps ..lol
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Old 02-02-2006, 06:27 PM   #9
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OH again , just thought ...lol. , from working on boats in the past i seen them alot , most big houseboats have them, allthough they have heaps of batterys for backup too when idle ( only takes 1x 12v car battery to operate a 12v-dc to 240v-ac suficientlly though ;) - with engine running !!! ). Very good chance of getting one from any major boat retailer , like jv-marine and so on , allthough they will prolly charge twice as much as dicksmiths or jaycar ! ...lol - ok done with that 1 - good luck
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Old 02-02-2006, 06:28 PM   #10
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SHIFT LIGHT i found this in the E-Series pages a while ago.......
and can you get the wiring for an AU I6?

http://www.fordforums.com.au/showthr...ht=shift+light
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Old 02-02-2006, 06:36 PM   #11
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OH again and agin , i keep remembering extras ..lol , .. depending on what 240v houshold product u wanna run on 12v dc - u'de be suprised that most household stuff is actually only 12v dc max anyways !!! - if u pull the appliance apart and see the main power lead going straight into a transformer - then 75% chance its a dc appliance - and 90 % chance its a 9v dc ranging to 16v dv transformer in the appliance converting the 240v ac into 9 to 16 v dc etc etc , check the OUTPUT rating on the transformer INSIDE the appliance - if its a DC OUTPUT then u can just disconnect the transformer and hardwire the appliance straight to the car battery ( and would just need to add a resistor or 2 to get the voltage and amps output from the battery right for the appliance u want to use )
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Old 02-02-2006, 06:40 PM   #12
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SIKSIX - well there ya go , well done , i knew there would be a plug or something , as quoted from that link "tacho feed from the diagnostic port"
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Old 02-02-2006, 06:45 PM   #13
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SIKSIX - well there ya go , well done , i knew there would be a plug or something , as quoted from that link "tacho feed from the diagnostic port"
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Old 02-02-2006, 06:46 PM   #14
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sorry - double post - accident
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Old 02-02-2006, 08:46 PM   #15
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Good Stuff XR6-VCT-2000, why don't you ask Casper and put a sub forum in the AU Falcon Workshop so we can ask questions without trying to look for this thread. :
Coz I know I'll be asking. :evil3:
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Old 02-02-2006, 09:25 PM   #16
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Thanks BLUPRNT XR8 .. yeah good thinking , this post aint been here long and its allready getting busy , would be easier to keep track of different electrical topics if they were in a sub forum, I'll look into asking him that soon , cheers .
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Old 03-02-2006, 12:29 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DOC
Ok champ, appreciate the offer, how do i convert a normal 240v electrical household product to run of the car lets just say a coffee maker and what would be the best way to wire it up ( lets say the coffee maker will sit in the engine bay. BA xr8

Cheers
Pete

Come on DOC just wedge your stainless steel thermo mug between the header pipe and rev hard for five min ,HOT COFFEE........LOL

10A inverter is the best way ,but why mount it in the engine bay ,under the front passenger seat is best way and then you can use it to run your PC and a buffer and coffee and a fridge if need be.....LOL
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Old 03-02-2006, 12:36 PM   #18
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Ihad this idea (and I think it's pretty good)- can we just swap the feed for the adjustable overspeed alarm from the speedo to a feed for the tacho- that way you could adjust the RPM- I imagine you still adjust it the same way but the kph would just mean finding out where the relative rpm points are ie. just set it to 100km/h and rev in neutral to find at what point the alarm sounds..........

would this work and how easily can it be done............
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Old 03-02-2006, 04:03 PM   #19
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jimt3te50 ..... Sounds like a good idea, allthough it would be ashame to have to disable a standard component (the speed warning alarm ) to gain an extra component. The link SIKSIX posted http://www.fordforums.com.au/showthr...ht=shift+light looks close to about the best mod possible for a rev warning indicator - more convenient to mount the adjustable pot somewhere easyilly accessible - also adding a small alarm to this design wouldn't be hard at all if u wanted a warning alarm added aswell , or if u wanted just an alarm sounding noise you could use exactelly the same mod as in that link but replace the l.e.d with a small alarm pcb.
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Old 03-02-2006, 04:13 PM   #20
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I have 100w spot lights, I want to put something in so when I put my parkers on they will operate at say about 25w of power and then if I flick the high beam on they woud go to 100w, I know a double relay will allow this, but what is best to reduce the watage of the existing 100w globes.
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Old 03-02-2006, 04:17 PM   #21
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I'll check out the electrical schematics for the diagnostics port anyways, and see if its possible to wire something to plug into the port that will allow us to use the speed sound alarm, so making a new pcb for a tacho rev warning alarm wouldn't be needed.
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Old 03-02-2006, 04:26 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by XR6-VCT-2000
jimt3te50 ..... Sounds like a good idea, allthough it would be ashame to have to disable a standard component (the speed warning alarm ) to gain an extra component. The link SIKSIX posted http://www.fordforums.com.au/showthr...ht=shift+light looks close to about the best mod possible for a rev warning indicator - more convenient to mount the adjustable pot somewhere easyilly accessible - also adding a small alarm to this design wouldn't be hard at all if u wanted a warning alarm added aswell , or if u wanted just an alarm sounding noise you could use exactelly the same mod as in that link but replace the l.e.d with a small alarm pcb.
I only use the cruise and have never even used the speed alarm for as long as I've had it- using it for the shift alarm would be ideal as

a. it's instantly adjustable
b. it's able to be toggled on and off
c. it's factory fitted- it's not obtrusive
d. it would work (I think)

I reckon it would be perfect, although the alarm may be a bit subtle and slower under full noise, but still- I think it would be surprisingly effective and not blinding- probably ideal for a street car..........
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Old 03-02-2006, 04:40 PM   #23
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EA2BA .. hmmmm , i'll have a think about this 1 for ya and see what i can come up with, and yeah a double relay would allow it. Also another sorta easy way off the top off my head right now i can think of is the following - U could wire the 100watt spotlights straight from the rear of the parker lights ( more to it yet ! ) - and wire also straight from your from your 100watt spotlights to behind the main highbeam lights ... BUT ... U would have to use 2 diodes REVESED ( stops flow of volts / amps etc etc running back up the lines fom the cars highbeams), 1 in each line on the + line and the - line that runs between the 100watt spotlights and the parker lights !! - this is important or u would be pushing the voltage and amps of the highbeams back though the lines that runs from the 100watt spotlights to your parkers - which will blow the globes in them. THIS IS JUST OFF THE TOP OFF MY HEAD RIGHT NOW SO DONT JUST GO DO IT YET ! - I WILL NOT BE HELD RESPONSIBLE FOR DAMAGES !! ... i would have to check out more into the amp drawage from the spotlights , parkers , and highbeams be4 i confirmed this , but it would also be possible to use a setup like this so when u have your parkers on your spotlights are very low beam and parkers too , when on normal driving lights u could have the spotlights then running aswell but at midrange brightness , and when flicking high beam on they would run full as full spotlights .... If you are interested in something like this then hang in there cos i was actually looking at doing this myself too anyways ..lol , so its a work in progress ;) .
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Old 03-02-2006, 04:51 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EA2BA
I have 100w spot lights, I want to put something in so when I put my parkers on they will operate at say about 25w of power and then if I flick the high beam on they woud go to 100w, I know a double relay will allow this, but what is best to reduce the watage of the existing 100w globes.
Can you install dual stage globes in your spotties? Like a low beam 25 w and a high beam of 100watts? Hook it up via 2 changeover relays and then you can source a fat power sourceand fuse it without burning the parker circuit of the car
..
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Old 03-02-2006, 05:00 PM   #25
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jim3te50 - sounds easy in theory - but gimme a bit of time to see if what u are asking can be done easilly - as far as i can tell so far by the electrical schematics and ifo i have found so far, the tacho & speedo readings are all read by the ecu chip , also the speed limit warning controls get their readings and tell the ecu if its on or off or what setting its at etc etc - thus the ecu sets off the alarm. Messing with stuff or making modifications around the ecu aint gonna be a good idea fullstop ( but im not saying thats the only option yet ) - it might be possible through the diagnostics port ( i gotta check more yet ) - and if not then ill have to get inot the nitty gritty of what each wire is on the plug that plugs into the back of the dash ! ( might have to mod the wiring on the plug ) ... let me think about it a bit more and do some more checking and ill get back to u on that 1 ;)
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Old 03-02-2006, 05:13 PM   #26
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looking into the lights issue , looking at the way i was on about anyways - i think it would all have to be supplied from at least the high beams powers source depending on what type of spotlights u have , some globes/lights will allow dimming by reducing volts but maintaing the amps still needed to run the lights, some just cut out alltogether if not supplied with the exact volts and amps the light specifies.
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Old 03-02-2006, 07:04 PM   #27
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EA2BA ...... sorry nearlly forgot about your main question , reducing 100watts to 25 watts , besides knowing the volts (13.5) based on a standard car battery , i also need to know the amp rating that is been sent to your spotlights when running. Then i can apply ohms law to figure out for you how many ohms resistor u will need to reduce the overall volts and amps to get 25watts only from the lights instead of 100watt. ....
..
So ... currentlly 100 watt spotlights, + and - wire supplying the spotlights are 13.5 v ( yes ? ) and are supplying ????????????? ( how many ) AMPS ?????????? , i need to know the amps as is now. cheers ;)
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Old 03-02-2006, 07:15 PM   #28
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Oh and looking into the lights subject futher more , looks like wiring your spotlights to the existing wiring of other lights is gonna draw to much amps with 2 sets of lights going off the setup thats in the AU , pretty much 100% chance of blowing fuses (could use higher rating fuses to allow for higher amp drawage) but then also a good chance of frying something else. So the way you originally planned to wire the spotlights to parkers sounds like the safest bet too , just need to know how many amps is in the + and - wires that run to your spotlights ;) , then i can tell you how to reduce it to 25watt total at the lights.
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Old 05-02-2006, 05:12 AM   #29
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?????? lol
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Old 05-02-2006, 09:40 AM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BLUPRNT XR8
Good Stuff XR6-VCT-2000, why don't you ask Casper and put a sub forum in the AU Falcon Workshop so we can ask questions without trying to look for this thread. :
Coz I know I'll be asking. :evil3:
Very useful thread (its almost an electrical "dear Abby") however their is already a dedicated auto elec forum for all models on AFF http://www.fordforums.com.au/forumdisplay.php?f=24

No way to justify one just for AU's guys, and I dont think the AU has such a pressing need for a whole forum dedicated to it.
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